Monday, July 11, 2016

Peach Cobbler

Upon returning back from a short trip to Michigan, I received a box of the most beautiful, ripest South Carolina peaches I had ever seen. Sorry Georgia, you may be the Peach state, but South Carolina may be the unofficial Peach Queen. This generous, thoughtful gift was sent from a very dear friend who mysteriously said a package would be arriving at my doorstep sometime the first week in July. I wasn't sure what this unexpected gift would be, but I wasn't expecting fruit. Except, this was just fruit and these were not just any peaches. These were peaches from McLeod Farms, a one hundred year old family owned farm in McBee, South Carolina. Because, of course, this friend wasn't going to send just any box of peaches. They would have to be ones coming from a place where fruits and vegetables have been grown by generations of South Carolinians. If one could become legally intoxicated from simply looking at the most perfect peaches, then moments after I opened the box I was definitely drunk in peach love.

"The cobbler is simple. It's homey, nothin' fancy. It cuts across socio-economic lines and is eaten in red and blue states alike. Its' history is one of immigrant innovative spirit. How's that for American?" (Washington Post, 2006). What is not to love about a simple, homemade dessert, one where all of its' fuss is not in its' fancy pastry but rather its' taste from seasonally ripe fruits? Pies may be pretty but the cobbler's true beauty lies in its' simplicity. And this Peach Cobbler, one made with the ripest, freshest peaches and a ginger-pecan cookie-like crust, not only exemplifies but further elevates the allure of the classic American cobbler. Without hesitation I knew the some of those South Carolina peaches were destined for a Peach Cobbler.

While many cobblers, especially the stone fruit ones, call for the use of several fruits, these peaches needed, or rather almost demanded to be, of course in the most gracious Southern way possible, the center of attention.

One of my favorite "Southern" magazines is Garden and Gun. Published (but where else?) in Charleston, South Carolina. While I am mostly drawn to the writing in this magazine, it has also been a source of culinary inspiration. So when searching out Peach Cobbler recipes, I decided Garden and Gun would serve as my muse. Because where else but the South could the best Peach Cobbler recipes come from?

Whenever a recipe calls for 'x number of cups of a stone fruit or x number of fruits', my need for specificity self cringes. Measuring blueberries isn't the same as measuring peeled and sliced peaches. After triangulating several pound to cup conversion sources for peaches, there seemed to be some consensus that a pound of peaches was equivalent to 2 cups of peaches. And generally 2 to 3 medium sized peaches will weigh close to a pound. For this Peach Cobbler, I went with 3 pounds of peaches, as I wanted the ratio between peach filling and topping to be balanced.

If you have peeled a very ripe peach, you probably discovered it is easier done with a sharp knife than with a vegetable peeler. I was reminded of this lesson after massacring the first one!
Instead of cutting the peaches into chunks, I cut them into slices. They were just too pretty not to be cut any other way.

The recommended amounts of sugar to be used in a fruit cobbler, particularly a Peach Cobbler, was essentially all over the map. This particular cobbler used only a half cup of sugar and three tablespoons of honey to compliment the sweetness of the peaches. While some recipes don't advocate for the use of a thickener when making a cobbler, a peach cobbler may qualify as one of the exceptions. Because peaches don't have as much pectin as, let's say apples, it needs a little something to help with setting up the filling. There are a variety of thickening options (flour, cornstarch, tapioca) but I used my favorite, Maizena Corn Starch, as it seems to consistently create the smoothest, silkiest fillings and sauces. Cinnamon and nutmeg are two of the most common spices used in a Peach Cobbler. But there was going to be nothing common about this Peach Cobbler, so it used a combination of cinnamon, ground ginger, and allspice. Although the recipe in Garden and Gun called for equal amounts of each of them, I wanted the allspice to have a more subtle presence in this cobbler, so I significantly decreased it. Lemon zest, lemon juice, kosher salt, vanilla and a tablespoon of unsalted butter rounded out the list of ingredients.

Recently I had made a Blueberry Cobbler using an eggless ginger pecan cookie-like crust from another modified recipe out of Garden and Gun. In keeping with creating a 'Southern' inspired Peach Cobbler, I thought it would be the perfect topping (spoiler alert: it was). Giving this crust added dimensions of flavor are the roasted pecans and chopped crystallized ginger. Note: I like buying the Crystallized Ginger from Trader Joe's for its' freshness, flavor, and cost.
The recipe for the crust makes more than enough for a Peach Cobbler made in a 9"x12" baking dish. I used all but about 2/3 cup of it (I won't tell you what I did with it in light of recent opinions on eating raw cooking dough). Rather than drop pieces of the dough on top of the peach filling, I took pieces and slightly flattened them first before arranging them on top.

In a preheated 350 degree (F) oven, the Peach Cobbler bakes anywhere from 55 to 65 minutes. Or until the top is golden brown and the filling bubbles up along the sides and/or through the topping. The aroma of this Peach Cobbler was just as intoxicating as look of the fresh peaches themselves. Note: Before placing the baking pan in the oven, place on a large baking sheet to catch any of the peach filling drippings.

As much as I hate to tell anyone to wait for something, for anything they crave, I must tell you to wait at least 30 minutes before you serve this cobbler. If you serve it any sooner, it will be much too hot to savor and enjoy. And if you are serving it ala mode, well your ice cream will be completely melted before the third or fourth bite. Serve warm (or even room temperature) with the best vanilla ice cream and, well, everyone will become deliriously happy.

The only downside to receiving the box of fresh peaches was that I could not share this incredibly soul-satisfying, intoxicating, Peach Cobbler with my generous on so many levels friend. If there was ever a case to made for everyone in the country owning their own drone, ones able to safely and swiftly fly across the country, you would have to look no further than this Peach Cobbler. The peach filling was perfectly sweet, spiced, and thick and the topping was perfectly crunchy, nutty, gingery, and just the right amount of sweet. And oh, those slices of the peaches in the filling! This cobbler almost did not need the vanilla ice cream, but then again why have a bowl of comfort food if it can't also be decadent. I think I may have just discovered a new guilty pleasure.

Recipe
Peach Cobbler (several adaptations to Garden and Gun's Peach Cobbler and Blackberry and Peach Cobbler recipes)

Ingredients
Filling
3 pounds (or 6 cups) fresh ripe peaches, peeled and sliced
1/2 cup granulated sugar
3 Tablespoons honey
3 Tablespoons cornstarch
Zest and juice of 1 large lemon
1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 1/2 teaspoons ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 Tablespoon unsalted butter (plus more for preparing the pan)

Topping and Assembly
3/4 cup (3 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
3/4 cup granulated sugar
3/4 light brown sugar, firmly packed
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
3 cups all-purpose flour
1/3 cup crystallized ginger, finely chopped
1 cup pecan halves, toasted and coarsely chopped
Vanilla Ice Cream (Ben and Jerry's is my current favorite)

Directions
Filling
1. In a large bowl, combine the peach slices, sugar honey, cornstarch, lemon zest, lemon juice, cinnamon, ginger, allspice, kosher salt, and vanilla. Pour into a lightly buttered 9"x12" baking dish. 
2. Top with one tablespoon of butter cut into small pieces.
3. Set aside while you prepare the topping.

Topping and Assembly
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F).
2. In a large mixing bowl, cream butter until smooth (approximately 2 minutes) using a hand mixer.
3. Add granulated sugar and brown sugar to butter and beat at medium-high speed until fluffy (approximately 3-4 minutes).
4. Add dry ingredients in two batches. Mix until well incorporated. Note: Dough will be thick.
5. Mix in chopped ginger and pecans.
6. Remove large tablespoons of dough, flatten with your hands slightly, and place on top of peach mixture. Completely cover the peaches. Note: You will have about 2/3 cup of dough left over, however, if using a larger rectangular pan, you may have less than that remaining.
7. Place peach cobbler pan on a large rimmed baking sheet before putting in the oven to catch any peach filling drippings.
8. Bake for 55-65 minutes or the top is a golden brown and the filling is bubbly around the edges.
9. Allow to rest for 30 minutes before serving. Serve with your most favorite vanilla ice cream.

Notes: Use the ripest peaches you can find.The Peach Cobbler is equally delicious warm or at room temperature. Store any leftovers covered in the refrigerator. Reheat individual serving portions in the microwave before serving. 


Pentwater, Michigan's shades of blue.