Sunday, November 18, 2018

Sweet Potato Meringue Pie


What would Thanksgiving be without pie? Simply the fourth Thursday in November. Pie is considered to be one of those quintessentially required desserts on the Thanksgiving table. Depending on which region of the country you reside, which pie is most likely to make a holiday appearance varies. Although in spite of these regional differences, pumpkin, pecan, and apple pies are generally considered to rank highest amongst favorites. But did you know Sweet Potato Pie places somewhere in the top ten? And I would venture to guess it might be in the top three if you are from or live in the South. Of the many things learned living in Mississippi for a short while was such a thing a Sweet Potato Pie. Up until that point in my life, my Thanksgiving sweet potato consumption was limited to baked or casserole versions. 


After my first bite of a Sweet Potato Pie I realized just how deprived my sweet potato eating life had been. My first one was an unadorned version. One not even accompanied by a dollop of freshly whipped cream or the non-dairy whipped topping usually found in the frozen food aisle. Regardless of the absence of a creamy topping, I was smitten. Dare I say I liked the flavor and texture of a sweet potato pie better than pumpkin pie?


I didn't think a Sweet Potato Pie could get any better until I saw one topped with a toasted meringue. I may or may not have been drooling at the sight of it.


In my collection of clippings from magazines was a Sweet Potato Pie recipe from a very old issue of Bon Appetit. It came from Nita's Place, a restaurant in Savannah, GA. It's owner and chef Juanita Dixon became legendary in the 1990s for creating some the most savory soul food ever to have been served in the South. Unfortunately that restaurant is no longer in existence, although fortunately some of her recipes were published in various publications. Thus keeping the legacy of Nita's Place alive. Thankfully I saved the recipe for it's Sweet Potato Pie. After making Juanita's pie for the first time year back, I never looked for another sweet potato pie recipe again. Because despite of my limited sweet potato pie eating experiences, I believed this was the pie to end all pies.

For the most part, the filling for the pie is relatively easy to make with the sweet potatoes cooked not in the oven but in the microwave. You could certainly roast them in the oven if you wanted.


The recipe called for making the filling in a food processor. Instead I decided to assemble it using a bowl and whisk. My way of paying homage to all of the sweet potato pies made centuries ago.


The recipe shared in Bon Appetit called for the use of a frozen pie shell (thawed and pre-baked). Was it because Juanita didn't want to share her pie dough recipe? Or was this one of her secret shortcuts? I am guessing it may have been the former not the later. Almost everyone skilled at making pies will tell you there is a world of difference between a store-bought and homemade pie crust. And for good reason. A homemade dough helps us to live our best pie lives. There are many different pie dough recipes out there. The one I share below comes from the recently published cookbook "Sister Pie" Make this pie using this recipe or the one you love most. Just make this pie.


Like a Pumpkin Pie, this Sweet Potato Meringue Pie requires the pie crust be blind baked. Often referred to as pre-baking the crust before adding the filling. To learn more about blind baking, take a few minutes to read this how-to piece published by King Arthur Flour as it's filled with some really good tips. In the directions below I share how I blind baked this pie crust.


Once your pie shell is blind baked and allowed to cool slightly, it's filled with the luscious sweet potato pie filling. Baking time for the pie will range from 40-45 minutes or until the edges are puffed and the center is just set. This pie is ready to be enjoyed as soon as it cools. But if you are looking to take your Sweet Potato Pie eating experience to a completely new level or seeking to create a show-stopper pie, you need to top it with toasted meringue. Trust me when I say you will be happy you did.


If you can make pie dough from scratch, you can make this meringue. Even if you can't make pie dough, you can still make this meringue.


Unlike a French meringue where you beat the egg whites and sugar until the mixture is light, airy, and soft or a Swiss meringue where you begin by beating egg whites and sugar over boiling water, this meringue is made by drizzling a 240 degree (F) sugar syrup into lightly beaten egg whites, then beating at a medium-high speed until it almost quadruples in volume, is shiny, and holds medium to firm peaks. If you have never had an Italian meringue before, you are in for such a treat! Once made, the meringue is first piped or spread onto a cooled Sweet Potato Pie then lightly browned using a kitchen torch. The final step in transporting you to Sweet Potato Pie heaven.


You may never want to eat Pumpkin Pie again after you taste this Sweet Potato Meringue Pie. But don't feel free you have to give up one for the other. There is room in the pie world and on your Thanksgiving table for both of them.


This may be the most heavenly, borderline decadent, jacked up, drop the mic version of a Sweet Potato Pie on the planet. Creamy, slightly custardy in texture with it's flavor deepened from brown sugar and warm spices, a flaky buttery crust, and oh, that fluffy, toasted meringue topping makes for one highly irresistible pie. And it might be the BEST Sweet Potato Pie you have ever tasted. Your Thanksgiving is about to get happier!

Recipe
Sweet Potato Meringue Pie (Recipe for the sweet potato filling is a slightly adapted version of a very old Bon Appetit Sweet Potato Pie recipe; recipe for the dough is based on the All-Butter Pie Dough from the cookbook "Sister Pie"; and lastly, the recipe for the Italian meringue is adapted from one shared by recipe developer, pie diva Erin McDowell)
Makes one 9" pie

Ingredients
Dough (Makes enough for two crusts. See notes below)
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup unsalted butter, cubed, preferably European-style, straight from the refrigerator
1/2 cup ice cold water-vinegar mixture (See note below)
Egg wash: one large egg very well beaten

Pie Filling
1 1/2 to 1 3/4 pounds red-skinned sweet potatoes (yams)
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1/3 cup firmly packed brown sugar
1/2 cup sweetened condensed milk
6 Tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly
2 large eggs, room temperature
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon mace (or if not available, use allspice)
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 cup frozen non-dairy whipped topping (such as Cool Whip), thawed

Meringue (see note below)
1 cup caster or granulated sugar
1/3 cup water
3 large egg whites
1/4 teaspoon cream of tarter
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Directions
Dough
1. In the bowl of a large-sized food processor, add in flour, sugar, and salt. Pulse to blend.
2. Add in cubed ice cold butter, and pulse until mixture has pea-sized pieces of butter.
3. Slow pour in a half-cup of the cider-vinegar/water mixture. Process until dough just starts coming together. Be careful not over process. Note: If the mixture isn't coming together, add more of the vinegar-water mixture, one teaspoon at a time.
4. Turn dough out on a lightly floured surface and briefly knead until it forms a ball. Cut the ball in half, Pat each ball into a 2" thick disk. Wrap in plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator. Chill for at least 90 minutes or up to 2 hours.
5. When ready to blind bake your crust, preheat oven to 450 degrees (F).
6. On a lightly floured surface, place one of the disks. Roll out the dough to a 13-14 inch circle (about quarter inch thickness). Roll up the dough and place in your pie tin/plate. Roll any dough hanging out from the pie tin under itself. Shape and/or crimp your pie crust as desired. Place pie crust back in the refrigerate for at least 30 but up to 2 hours.
7. Line the pie shell with aluminum foil, lightly fold the aluminum foil over the edges of the pie plate. Fill to the top with dried beans or pie weight.
8. Bake for 25-27 minutes or until edges are a light golden brown. Remove from the oven and transfer to a cooling rack. Let rest for 6 minutes before removing the foil and beans. Brush the edge of the pie shell with an egg wash and return pie shell to oven and bake for 2-4 additional minutes to set up the base. Note: If the dough puffs up, puncture it with a fork.
9. Let pie shell cool briefly before pouring in the pie filling. Bake pie according to directions below.

Pie Filling
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F).
2. Cook the sweet potatoes in the microwave on high until a knife pierces the center easily (approximately 7 minutes per side). Note: Choose sweet potatoes having a similar size.
3. Cut sweet potatoes in half and allow to cool slightly or until you can handle them. Scoop out the flesh and place in a bowl. Mash until no large chunks remain. Measure out 1 1/3 cups of mashed sweet potatoes. Set aside.
4. In a medium sized bowl, add in eggs, granulated sugar, light brown sugar, melted butter, sweetened condensed milk, cinnamon, nutmeg, and mace. Whisk until blended.
5. Add in the mashed sweet potatoes until well combined and smooth.
6. Fold in the thawed whipped topping. Whisk until no white streaks remain. Pour mixture into your cooled blind baked pie crust. Smooth the top. Place pie plate on a baking sheet and put into the preheated oven.
7. Bake until the filling is puffed at the edges and just set in the center (approximately 40-45 minutes). Remove from oven and let cool on a rack.

Meringue
1. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, add in the egg whites and cream of tartar. Mix briefly to combine. Set aside.
2. In a small heavy bottomed saucepan, combine the sugar and water. Over medium heat, stir only until the sugar has dissolved. Continue to cook the sugar-water mixture until it reaches a temperature of 235 degrees (F) on a candy thermometer (approximately 4-5 minutes). 
3. Begin whipping the egg whites on medium speed so they are lightly whipped and foamy by time the sugar-water mixture reaches 240 degrees (F). As soon as the mixture reaches 240 degrees, remove the pot from the heat and begin to slowly pour the hot sugar syrup along the sides of the mixing bowl. Increase speed to medium-high, add in salt and vanilla, and continue whipping until the meringue almost quadruples in volume and reaches a medium peak (approximately 3-4 minutes.
4. Prepare two or three pastry bags fitted with an assortment of tips (e.g., open star, closed star, French star, round). Divide the meringue between the bags. Pipe meringue on top of the cooled to room temperature sweet potato pie. Completely cover the pie in meringue or make a wreath-like design (leaving the center of the pie exposed).
5. Using a kitchen torch, toast the meringue to your desired state of brown. 
6. Serve immediately or within 2-3 hours. Once topped with the meringue the pie is best enjoyed the same day. If you carefully cover any leftover pie with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator, it is still really, really delicious.

Notes: (1) You will have enough for two pies or a single pie with a top crust with this dough recipe. If not making two pies or a top crusted pie, keep dough well wrapped in the refrigerator for a couple of days or in the freezer for up to 6 months. (2) If you don't want to make your own pie (although I would encourage you to), use a refrigerated pie crust. Instead of blind baking, bake the crust until lightly golden brown at 450 degrees (F) for approximately 7-9 minutes. (3) To make the water-apple cider vinegar mixture, put 2 measured Tablespoons of apple cider vinegar into a one-cup measuring cup. Fill to the cup line with ice cold water. Keep the chilled water-apple cider vinegar mixture in the refrigerator until ready to use. (4) Topping the Sweet Potato Pie with the meringue is optional (but turns the pie into a showstopper). If not topping with meringue, serve the pie with some lightly sweetened whip cream or simply serve plain.

Three Oaks, Michigan (November 2018)