Friday, July 26, 2019

Bread and Butter Pickles, Second Edition


If you haven't already noticed, a pattern is developing or rather I should say emerging here. Second and third iterations of previously shared recipes are interspersed with first-time ones. There is only one rule I follow when deciding whether or not to revisit pasts recipes. They must look and taste better than the original ones. More often than not, old recipes are not just tweaked, updated, or subtly nuanced. They are significantly different from their first generation cousins in technique, ingredient ratios, ingredient amounts, taste, texture, and/or presentation. Do I hold any recipes sacred? Yes. there are many I think are as close to perfect as possible. Ones I want to preserve in perpetuity, stake my cooking and baking reputation on, and put on my final meal on earth list. But there are also some much loved recipes, which if never changed, will continue to be making regular appearances at my table. They might not be throw down worthy, but they are definitely better than good. However, then there are those good enough, definitely worth making recipes, who are just holding their breath wondering if they will be replaced with a holy grail version. The good news is there aren't many in that category. The recipe for Bread and Butter Pickles shared six years ago happens to be one falling into that final category.


The Bread and Butter Pickles (Second Edition) recipe would definitely give last year's Sweet and Spicy Refrigerator Pickles recipe a run for its' money. But because these are two completely different refrigerator pickles, there is room in my life, in your life for both pickle recipes. And honestly, I wouldn't want to have to choose between them or give up one for the other. 


With pickling cucumbers now coming into season, I find it almost impossible to leave the Farmer's Market without buying some. The ones I bought this week were so beautiful. 

Like with most refrigerator pickle recipes there is generally a 24 hour wait time before they are ready to eat. Not only does overnight refrigeration gives the flavor a chance to deepen, but the pickles themselves have enough time to crisp up. A crunchy bread and butter pickles is a really good pickle. And this Bread and Butter pickle has a great crunch!


Cut your pickling cucumbers too thin and they will be close to impossible to develop that crunchy pickle texture we all love. Cutting them to a thickness of almost a 1/4" is what you should aim for as your they will shrink as they loose some of their moisture during the salting process.


To help remove some of the moisture from the pickling cucumber slices, they are tossed with some kosher salt, covered, and refrigerated for about 90 minutes. After they are drained and rinsed in a colander, they are mixed with the thinly sliced (sweet) onions.


Unlike the pickling cucumbers, you want your (sweet) onions very thinly sliced. Using a mandolin makes slicing tear-free easy. 

The brine for the pickles is made with white vinegar, apple cider vinegar, granulated sugar, light brown sugar, whole mustard seeds, celery seeds, turmeric, and a pinch of sea salt. All of the brine ingredients are mixed together in a pot and cooked until the sugars have completely melted. The brine should be really hot (not warm) when poured over the cucumber and onion slices.


All you have left to do is let the jars of bread and butter pickles cool slightly (about an hour) before covering tightly and chilling overnight in the refrigerator. That's when the magic happens!

If you have never had a homemade (refrigerator) Bread and Butter Pickle before, you are in for a treat. These have just the right amount of sweetness and a perfect crunch. Serve them as a side dish, as a condiment, on a charcuterie board, or use them in any recipe calling for bread and butter pickles. Or you can eat them out of the jar!

Summer wouldn't be summer around here without homemade pickles. Once you taste them, you may never want to eat another store-bought jar of bread and pickles again. And I definitely won't be looking to update, change, or alter this Bread and Butter Pickle (Second Edition) recipe any time soon. Or if ever. Yes, these are that good. Cucumber pickle season won't be here long. So get out there and make some pickles!

Recipe
Bread and Butter Pickles, Second Edition

Ingredients
1 1/2 pounds pickling cucumbers, cut into just shy of 1/4" inch slices
1 1/2 Tablespoons kosher salt
1 cup thinly sliced sweet onions (such as Vidalia onions)
1 cup white vinegar
1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar
1/4 cup (50 g) light brown sugar, firmly packed
1 1/2 teaspoons whole mustard seeds
1/2 teaspoon celery seeds
1/8 teaspoon turmeric
Pinch of sea salt

Directions
1. Place the cucumber pickle slices in a large, shallow bowl. Sprinkle with the kosher salt. Cover and place in the refrigerator for 90 minutes.
2. Remove from the refrigerator and pour into a colander. Rinse and drain.
3. In a large, clean bowl, mix together the rinsed cucumber pickle slices and the onions. Transfer cucumber/onion mixture to a large or two medium sized jars. Set aside.
4. In a medium sized saucepan, combine the white vinegar, cider vinegar, granulated sugar, brown sugar, mustard seeds, celery seeds, turmeric, and sea salt. Bring mixture to a boil over medium heat. Whisk until the sugars have melted.
5. Pour the hot brine into a measuring cup. Then pour into the jars. Filling all the way to the top.
6. Let the jars sit at room temperature for about an hour.
7. Seal tightly with a lid and place in the refrigerator overnight (or up to 24 hours).
8. Open your Bread and Butter Pickle jar and enjoy. Pickles will remain fresh and crunchy stored properly in a sealed jar in the refrigerator.

Notes: (1) Look for medium sized (about 6 inch long) cucumber pickles. (2) A half of a large Vidalia onion had a one cup yield of thinly sliced onions. (3) I used these Weck jars. If you have vintage canning jars with lids that seal tightly use them.