Thursday, March 9, 2023

Orange Olive Oil Cake w/ Whipped Mascarpone Icing


I first became aware of olive oil cakes while taking a cooking class taken decades ago. To be perfectly honest, I wasn't exactly ecstatic when I learned it would be the dessert we were making. Up until that point in my life I had never had an olive oil cake. Yet, for some reason any enthusiasm I normally have for desserts was replaced with an unfounded ambivalence. More than likely it was my obsession with chocolate that was leading me down an unfair pre-judgment path. However, it would be understatement to say I was reminded of one of life's valuable lessons that day. Never judge a cake before you taste it. 

The plain, simple, almost rustic olive oil cake turned out be an unexpected, incredibly delicious surprise. With a dense, tender crumb texture similar to a great pound cake, but a jillion times moister, I discovered why this seemingly unassuming cake has been around for centuries. With only a hint of sweetness, they are as perfect of a rustic finish to a rich dinner as they are to being served for breakfast or as mid-morning or afternoon snack. Now, years later after savoring my first olive oil cake, it seems they are returning back to the 'dessert' spotlight in great coffee shops and restaurants. And yes, there are even chocolate olive oil cakes!

Olive oil cakes can be served with a simple dusting of confectionary sugar or with a dollop of whipped cream and fruit compote or curd. Or this simple cake can be gussied up with a whipped mascarpone icing. But regardless of how you decide to finish it, there is something else you should know. Olive oil cakes get better with age. While you can enjoy the cake on the day you make it, it actually gets better on days two and three (it lasts up to five days) as the citrus flavors further meld together. In other words, it's one of those cakes that ages gracefully.


Almost all olive oil cakes call for the use of citrus as olive oil and citrus are fabulous together. From freshly squeezed juice, to freshly grated zests, to even some Grand Marnier, what is not to love about this cake? Consistent with the 'more is better' way of thinking, the recipe for this Orange Olive Cake calls for the use of all three. Each 'citrus' ingredient adds a different flavor profile to the cake: sweetness, zestiness, and a greater depth of orange flavor. Because olive oil is a key ingredient in the cake, it's important to choose wisely. Just as you would only cook with an olive oil worthy of finishing a dish or dipping your bread in, you want a good olive oil when baking. Any olive oil with an unpleasant flavor or odor will make their way into the baked cake. The olive oil does not need to be either the most or least expensive or priciest. But it should definitely be extra-virgin. By it's very nature extra-virgin olive oil has fruity undertones, making it the ideal 'oil' choice.

There are as many assembly techniques for olive oil cakes as there are recipes. While the earliest olive cakes were made by hand, the techniques used in this Orange Olive Cake require the use of a hand mixer and whisk. Key to making a great cake batter is ensuring it is not 'over beaten'.  


Baked in a 9" springform pan, the Orange Olive Oil cake bakes for 70-85 minutes. Test the cake for doneness by inserting a toothpick into the cake and pressing down on it lightly.  If the toothpick comes out clean and cake springs back, the cake is done. (To ensure the cake is not 'wet' in the center, err slightly on the side of a longer baking time.) Due to its' long baking time, the top of the cake may darken before the cake is done. To keep the cake from 'over browning' lightly place of aluminum foil over the cake sometime around the 40-45 minute mark. The baked cake should be placed on wire rack and allowed to cool for 30 minutes before being removed from the springform pan. Once completely cool, wrap the cake in plastic wrap and let rest. Note: Recommend baking the cake the night before or earlier in the day of serving. If finishing with the Whipped Mascarpone Icing, wait to put it on the cake until right before serving.

The Whipped Mascarpone Icing can be spread over the top of the cake, piped on with a pastry bag, or dolloped alongside of a slice of cake. While there is much to be said about the old adage 'fresh is best', in the case of this orange olive oil cake, seriously consider baking the cake the day before and icing it on the day you plan on serving it. Because if you have never had an olive oil cake before, I want your first bite to be the one causing you to fall in love. And who knows, instead of chocolate, you might choose to serve this simple, flavorful, moist, citrus olive oil cake at your next gathering. Remember, any leftovers will get even more delicious. 

Recipe
Orange Olive Oil Cake w/ Whipped Mascarpone Icing
Serves up to 12

Ingredients
2 1/2 cups (325g) all-purpose flour
1 1/2 cups (300g) granulated sugar
1 teaspoon Kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 large eggs
1 cup whole milk
1 1/2 - 2 Tablespoons orange zest (from 2 medium sized navel oranges)
1/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1/4 cup Grand Marnier

1 cup heavy whipping cream
1/2 cup (66g) confectionary sugar sifted
1 teaspoon vanilla
8 ounces (226g) mascarpone cheese, room temperature

Optional: Sliced oranges for garnish; confectionary sugar for dusting; fruit compote for serving, freshly whipped cream

Directions
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees (F). Line a 9" springform pan with parchment paper. Butter the parchment paper and sides of pan. Lightly sprinkle the bottom of the pan with sugar. Set aside.
2. Sift the flour, Kosher salt, baking soda, and baking powder together in a medium sized bowl. Set aside.
3. In a small-medium bowl, whisk together the milk, orange juice, and Grand Marnier. Set aside.
4. In a medium-large bowl beat the the sugar, eggs, and orange zest until creamy (about 2 minutes). Slowly pour in the olive and beat until blended (about 1 minute).
5. On low speed, beat in half of the flour mixture. Just until incorporated. Then beat in half of the milk mixture. Just until incorporated. Repeat with remaining flour and milk mixtures. The batter should be smooth and creamy.
6. Pour into the prepared pan. Place the springform pan on a rimmed baking sheet and place in the preheated oven.
7. Bake for 70-85 minutes, carefully rotating midway through the baking process. Note: If the top of the cake is browning too much, lightly cover with aluminum foil. 
8. To check for doneness, insert a toothpick into the cake. If it comes out clean, the cake is done. Additionally, lightly press on top of the cake, if it springs back, your cake should be done.
9. Remove the cake from the oven. Place the springform pan on a cooling rack. Let cool for at least 30 minutes before removing from the pan.
10. Transfer the cake to a serving platter or cake stand. Note: When the cake is completely cool, cover well with plastic wrap. Highly recommend making the cake a day in advance and storing at room temperature.
11. To make the icing whip the heavy cream, vanilla and confectionary sugar until soft peaks form. Beat the mascarpone separately until smooth and creamy. Add the mascarpone to the whipped cream. Beat or whisk until well blended, smooth and fluffy.
12. Spread the icing top of the cake using an offset spatula. Or put the icing in pastry bags and pipe on top of the cake. Or serve the icing in a bowl and place dollops on cut slices of the cake.

Notes: (1) You can garnish the cake with fresh orange slices. (2) You can serve the cake with an orange curd or fruit compote. (3) If you ice the cake, keep covered and refrigerated after serving. (4) If you don't ice the cake, keep well wrapped at room temperature.