Shells and Cheese (Fontina & Cheddar)

"There is nothing I would not do for those who are really my friends." Jane Austen When it comes to being loyal, it would be fair to say I extend my fierce faithfulness only to people. Or rather I should say some people. Even when that loyalty might be a bit misguided or unreciprocated. Yet, with very few exceptions, I am genuinely not particularly loyal to things. Specifically to recipes. I can already hear your gasps! But before you stop reading this post or worse yet, decide you will no longer be a loyal follower, give me a chance to explain. As is often the case when I learn something new or self-reflect, I sometimes shift my thinking. The best example of this might be with regard to what I now believe to be a really, really, really good chocolate chip cookie recipe (at the moment it's this one). Over the course of the last thirty something plus years my loyalty, so to speak, to chocolate chip cookie recipes has changed for a myriad of reasons. From the quality of ingredients, to ingredient ratios, to recipe techniques, I must admit my allegiance to a recipe on more than one occasion has been upended. It's not that I completely abandon them, it's that they just don't always make regular repeat appearances on my table. 

There are currently five recipes, five versions of macaroni and cheese on the blog. And to be honest, I still like all of them for different reasons. But, if anyone were to ask me what my favorite mac and cheese recipe is, I would have to say it's for THIS ONE for Shells and Cheese. One made with Fontina and Cheddar cheeses and topped with a crunchy gremolata. If I were making mac and cheese for friends/family or for Thanksgiving, without hesitation, THIS would be the one I would be making. And it's the one I am going to try to be loyal to for as long as possible. And who knows, it could very well be one of those exceptions to the loyalty rule dishes!

So what's so different about this one that has me all excited and swooning over? Maybe it's the combination of both Fontina and Cheddar cheeses. Because what is not to love about the medium-sharp, rich, soft, creamy Fontina to give that cheese pull when you spoon it out of the dish? Or maybe it's the gremolata made with Japanese panko, fresh parsley, grated garlic and lemon zest adding both texture and flavor that had my head spinning. Or maybe it's the slight heat created by the use of onion powder, garlic powder, and white pepper that had me say 'wow' each time I took a bite. I could probably go on a bit more on why this is the lollapalooza of mac and cheese dishes, but I will show some restraint.

Like many macaroni and cheese dishes this one begins with a roux. Like most other bechamel based cheese sauces, this one starts with butter and flour. Although instead of adding in a higher milk to cream or half-and-half ratio, this one is heavy on the half-and-half. 

Because there isn't any hard and fast rule on which is the best pasta to use when making a macaroni and cheese dish, you can choose to stay traditional and use elbow macaroni or be swayed and use the slightly more delicate shells. But whether you opt for either of these choices or choose another one, remember you want one that lends itself to being liberally coated with the creamy, cheesy sauce. Or maybe you want to make a 'mockeroni' version using lightly steamed cauliflower florets. 

When buying a block of Fontina cheese, buy one weighing slightly more than you need to take into account the weight of rind. When choosing your cheddar cheese, look for one that's sharp. But for this dish you don't need to buy the highest end, most aged sharp cheddar you can find. Find one you like, one you would gladly just eat or serve on a charcuterie platter.

After you make the rich, creamy, cheesy sauce, remove the pan from the stovetop and mix in the al dente cooked pasta Working quickly, pour the entire mixture into a generously buttered baking dish. Note: You can make the dish up to this point early in the day. Just cover and refrigerate, but take out of the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before baking.

While the Shells and Cheese are baking in a preheated 350 degree (F) oven, make the gremolata. I had considered topping the dish with some crispy bacon, but at the moment I am in love with the flavor and added texture this gremolata brings to the dish. I prefer using the large, plain Japanese style panko rather than the smaller versions of panko you might find at the grocery store as it gives a much better crunch to the gremolata.

The gremolata is sprinkled on top after the Shells and Cheese finish baking. The recipe makes enough to lightly sprinkle over the whole dish or generously sprinkled down the center. Everyone needs to get at least a spoonful of it.

I might have momentarily died and gone to heaven while eating this Shells and Cheese dish. 

If by chance the dish isn't completely devoured and you have any leftovers, this Shells and Cheese dish reheats beautifully in the microwave. Yet another reason why I might become a most loyal fan to a recipe.

I don't think I am going too far out on a limb when I say this might be THE showstopper side dish at your next gathering. Which is all the more reason why you need one more macaroni and cheese recipe in your life. 

Recipe

Shells and Cheese (Fontina & Cheddar)

Serves 8-10 as a side dish

Ingredients

1 Tablespoon and 1 3/4 teaspoon Kosher salt, divided

16 ounces (454g) pasta shells (see notes)

3 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

4 Tablespoons (67g) unsalted butter

1/3 cup (44g) all-purpose flour

3 3/4 cups half and half

1/2 cup whole milk

10 ounces (283g) Fontina cheese, grated and divided

8 ounces (227g) sharp cheddar cheese, grated and divided (see notes)

1 1/4 teaspoons onion powder

1 1/4 teaspoons garlic powder

1 1/4 teaspoons white pepper

1/8 teaspoon nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 cup Japanese style Panko

1/2 cup freshly chopped flat leaf parsley

Zest of one lemon

1 large garlic clove, grated

Directions

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees (F). Generously butter a broiler safe 9" x 11" baking dish. Set aside.

2. Bring a large pot of water to boil over medium-high heat. Add in 1 Tablespoon of Kosher salt and the package of shells. Cook to al dente according to the package directions, but taste to make certain. Drain and transfer to a large bowl. Stir in 1 Tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil to keep the pasta from sticking.

3. In a heavy bottomed saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook whisking constantly until the mixture is lightly browned (about 4 minutes).

4. Gradually add in the half-and-half and milk, stirring until the sauce is smooth. Bring the sauce to a simmer over medium-high heat (whisking regularly), then reduce the heat to low and continue cooking for 4-5 minutes or until the sauce has no floury taste (about 4 minutes).

5. Remove from the heat and gradually add in 6 ounces of the grated Fontina and 6 ounces of the grated sharp cheddar, whisking until smooth. Whisk in the onion powder, garlic powder, white pepper, and nutmeg.

6. Stir in the cooked shells. Season with 1 1/2 teaspoons Kosher salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. 

7. Transfer mixture to the prepared baking dish. Top with the remaining 4 ounces of grated Fontina and 2 ounces of grated cheddar. Place dish on a large baking sheet and bake for about 20 minutes (or until the edges begin bubbling).

8. While the dish is baking, heat the remaining 2 Tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add in panko and cook until golden (about 3-4 minutes). Transfer to a bowl and let rest for 2 minutes. Stir in the chopped parsley, grated lemon zest, and grated garlic. Season with 1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt.

8. Increase the oven temperature to broil and cook until browned in spots (about 2-3 minutes). Again, remember to use a baking dish that can withstand a broil temperature.

9. Remove from the oven and let set for at least 5 minutes.

10. Top the Shells and Cheese with Gremolata. 

11. Serve immediately.

Notes: (1) Recipe heavily influenced by the Baked Shells with Gremolata Breadcrumbs recipe found in Food and Wine's Thanksgiving Issue, November 2021. (2) I used the N 105 shells from Granoro. (3) I used the Trader Joe's Unexpected Cheddar, however, if you want a slightly creamier dish use a softer sharp cheddar. (4) The other mac and cheese recipes on the blog can be found here: Gouda Mac and Cheese with Caramelized Shallots, Mac and Cheese East Coast Style, Baked Macaroni and Cheese, Macaroni and Cheese, Version 2, and Stovetop Mac and Cheese with Caramelized Shallots.

Scenes from Cape Cod (October 2021)

White Chocolate Cranberry Pecan Muffins (small batch)

I am about to say something so shocking, so blasphemous, and so unfathomable that my 'more is always better' persona wonders if I had been abducted by an alien. Less is more. There, I said it. And to even my surprise, I am neither hyperventilating, nor is my heart racing. But before any of my close friends go into complete shock, are unable to control their rolling on the floor laughter, and actually give some credence to the idea there was an alien abduction, let me say I am talking about muffins. Specifically, these small batch White Chocolate Cranberry Pecan Muffins. Why has it taken me a lifetime to come to the realization a recipe for six muffins can be better, more practical, even more perfect than one for twelve? But hey, the newfound awareness that six freshly baked muffins is sometimes all you need might just be the beginning of positive shift in my thinking. Remember, I said might. As going at the speed of light from one end of the 'less and more' continuum could render me unrecognizable to my friends and me as well. However, I am now the new, self-appointed advocate and spokesperson for small batch muffins.

Whether you live alone, have a family of four or less, or are hosting a gathering of six or less, we all need small batch recipes in our lives. And, if by chance, you don't have any or find it sometimes impossible to cut a muffin recipe in half, these small batch White Chocolate Cranberry Pecan Muffins are calling your name! As it happens, the timing of these six, glorious, beautiful, scrumptious, slightly decadent muffins could not be more perfect as we are in the middle of fresh cranberry season. 

With Thanksgiving and Christmas right around the corner, these White Chocolate Cranberry Pecan Muffins would be a great way to start your morning, to serve for breakfast, to enjoy with a cup of coffee or tea midday, or to nibble on late in the day. But don't wait that long to make them.

Steeping the orange zest in whole milk will give the muffins a stronger hint of an orange flavor. Using canola oil instead of butter will create a slightly moister muffin. Toasting the pecans always make for a more flavorful nut. Coarsely chopping the cranberries in the food processor ensures there will be a taste of cranberry in every bite. Room temperature ingredients will further contribute to creating high domed muffins. And reserving about two tablespoons of the white chocolate chips will give you enough to press into the tops of the muffins before they go into the oven.

Unlike most other muffin recipes, these are made using both a hand mixer and spatula or wooden spoon. The hand mixer is key in helping to bind the egg with the sugar and mixture as well as to create more volume to the batter. 

One of the keys to creating those beautiful high topped bakery style looking muffins is allowing the batter to rest for an hour. This rest time allows the starch molecules in the flour to absorb the liquid in the batter resulting in a thicker batter. Additionally, the resting period allows the gluten formed in the mixing process to relax giving way to more tender, taller domed muffins. 

When baking the muffins use either two 6 cup muffin pans or one 12 cup muffin pan. These muffins need to be spaced out in the muffin pan as they will both rise and spread. If baked close together you will end up with a huge muffin mess. Filling the empty cavity of the muffin tin with water (about 2/3s full) promotes even baking and prevents your muffin pan from warping in a hot oven. 

To prepare your muffin pan (preferably one non-stick), use a baking spray. Making sure to spray the muffin cavity as well as the top of the pan around each cavity. Baking the muffins in the pan rather than in a pan lined with papers will help to create muffins with a crisp exterior texture. Note: Cupcake papers were only used when serving.

In a preheated 425 degree (F) oven, the muffins are baked for 5 minutes. After reducing the oven temperature to 350 degrees, the muffins continue to bake for another 22-26 minutes. The muffins should have golden edges, be domed and spring back when lightly pressed with your finger. Alternately you can insert a toothpick into the muffin. If it comes out clean, your muffins are done.

These are substantially sized muffins. So to ensure they are successfully released allow them to rest in the muffin pan for 15-20 minutes before carefully removing them with an offset spatula. If you don't let them rest or aren't careful in removing them, you will take the tops of the muffins off leaving the rest of the muffin in the pan.

Be prepared to inhale the entire muffin after taking the first bite. The creamy white chocolate, slightly tart cranberries, toasted nuttiness, just the right amount of sweetness, and crunchy sugary top is pure, no regret, small batch muffin bliss. And let me know if will be joining me in jumping on the small batch muffin bandwagon! Because I am predicting there will be more small batch muffin recipes coming in the months ahead! 

Recipe

White Chocolate Cranberry Pecan Muffins (small batch)

Makes 6 gorgeous, scrumptious muffins

Ingredients

1 1/4 cups (165g) all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

3/8 teaspoon Kosher salt

1/4 cup (2 ounces) whole milk, room temperature

Zest of half of a large orange

1/4 cup (2 ounces) canola oil

1 large egg, room temperature

3/4 cup (150g) granulated sugar

1 cup (100g) whole cranberries, coarsely chopped in the food processor

1/2 cup (88g) white chocolate chips (reserving 2 Tablespoons)

1/2 cup (56g) pecan halves, toasted and coarsely chopped

Sparkling sugar for finishing

Directions

1. In a small bowl, add the orange zest to the milk. Set aside while assembling the rest of the ingredients.

2. In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, and Kosher salt.

3. In a medium bowl, beat together the sugar and oil for about 2 minutes (not to worry it won't looked whipped).

4. Add in the egg and beat for one minute until batter has increased in volume and is light in color.

5. On low speed, add in the sifted dry ingredients and milk/zest in five additions (starting and ending with the dry ingredients).

6. Fold in the cranberries, pecans, and white chocolate chips with a spatula or wooden spoon. Let the batter rest (uncovered) at room temperature for 45-60 minutes. The batter should be very thick.

7. Preheat oven to 425 degrees (F). Generously spray six cavities of a 12 cup muffin tin or three cavities of two 6 cup muffin tins. Note: Remember to make certain there is an empty muffin space between each sprayed cavity.

8. Using a large ice cream scoop, fill each muffin cup cavity. You will have enough batter for 6 regular sized muffins. Using the reserved white chocolate chips, lightly press 6-8 chips into the top of each muffin. Sprinkle with sparkling sugar.

9. Place muffin tin on a large baking sheet. Fill the empty cavities with water (2/3s full). Place muffin tin in oven. Bake for 5 minutes.

10. Reduce oven to 350 degrees (F) and continue baking for 22-26 minutes until golden, puffed and spring back when lightly pressed.

11. Remove from the oven and let muffins rest in the tin for 15-20 minutes.

12. Carefully remove the muffins with an offset spatula.  Serve warm or at room temperature. Muffins are best the day baked but will still be good for up to 2 days wrapped in a cellophane bag.

Notes: (1) Highly recommend using only whole milk. The use of any other milks will affect the muffin's flavor and texture. (2) I used fresh cranberries, but you can use frozen cranberries. After coarsely chopping, let them rest a bit to take their chill off. (3) If for some reason you don't like white chocolate, increase the amount of pecans used and omit the white chocolate. Although I have to tell you, these muffins might change that.

Cranberry bog harvest in Wareham, Massachusetts (October 2021)

Cider Roasted Pork Tenderloins w/ Homemade Applesauce

A few weeks back we traveled to and hiked in Smoky Mountain National Park with friends. As it turned out, the views from the deck of our stunning refined rustic VRBO were a prelude to the landscapes and wildlife waiting for us each day in the park.  Having only seen photos of the picturesque Smoky Mountains, seeing them in person exceeded even my romanticized versions of the early morning and nearing sunset mists engulfing the hollows, the mountains, and the restored cabins breathtaking views. My wish to see black bears (from a photographable distance) came true within two hours of arriving. Little did I know we would get glimpses of them each day. Like most first time visitors we spent a fair amount of time in Cades Cove, took the drive on Newfound Gap Road, hiked to Laurel and Abrams Falls, as well made the steep climb up to the top of Clingman's Dome. And, of course, did a couple of moonshine tastings in downtown Gatlinburg. Long days in the park called for relaxing in the hot tub with a glass (or two) of wine while watching the sunset or looking up at the stars. In spite of seeing a bear on the property, we sat around the fire in the firepit and made s'mores one night (for some odd reason no one was afraid). Because the house we stayed in had a movie theatre room, we even had a movie night. Lastly, no trip for me would be complete without a souvenir (or two). Several books and two pairs of cowboy boots were calling my name. 

During the day we enjoyed homemade sandwiches on our post hike picnics. For two nights we made dinner on the grill, had take-out barbecue one night, and ended the trip with dinner eating a fabulous meal at the incredible Appalachian Restaurant in Sevierville. If I had the chance to replan the dinner menus, I would have brought the fixins' for and made this Cider Roasted Pork Tenderloins with Homemade Applesauce. While we didn't get to enjoy this mouthwatering, delicious dish on this trip, I am going to make certain we do on the next one. And if by chance we had any leftovers, they would make for even more perfect lunches.

If there was ever a dish to impress family and friends on a fall or winter weeknight, at a casual or fancy dinner party, or even while traveling, this Cider Roasted Pork Tenderloins w/ Homemade Applesauce would be the one. The overnight cider and savory spiced marinade of the pork tenderloins makes them insanely flavorful. With roasting and resting times totaling about thirty minutes, it's one of those entrees that is nearly effortless. If you had to have only one pork tenderloin dish to be your signature pork dish, this just might be the one.

One of the things giving the pork tenderloins their deep savory flavor are the herbs and spices. Fresh ginger, coriander, cinnamon, black pepper, fennel, rosemary, and Kosher salt come together in the best of ways to awaken your palate. The (fresh) apple cider and maple syrup not only add a subtle hint of sweetness but contribute greatly to creating moist, succulent tenderloins. 

When you think of seasonings to flavor pork, you might not necessarily think of the ones used here. But trust me, once you taste this, your appreciation of a slightly untraditional spice and pork pairing will be altered forever.

If you don't have a mortar and pestle, use a ziplock bag and rolling pin to crush the spices. You don't need to pulverize the whole seeds, you just need to break them up enough to release their flavor.

The Homemade Applesauce can be made the day or even days before. Allowing the applesauce to rest in the refrigerator only enhances its' flavor. The best thing about making a homemade applesauce is you can process it to your desired consistency. Wherever you are on the smooth to chunky applesauce continuum, you get to decide. I happen to be somewhere in the middle.

The roasting time for the pork tenderloins ranges from 20-25 minutes (less if your tenderloins are on the smaller side). Key to keeping in all of the tenderloin's juices before slicing is letting them rest (tightly covered with aluminum foil) for 10 minutes. You definitely want to cut them on the diagonal into 1/2" slices. 

While many of us have been waiting a very long time to have dinner "out", these Cider Roasted Pork Tenderloins w/ Homemade Applesauce will make you happy you decided to have dinner "in". So invite over some of the friends you are grateful to have in your life. You know, the ones who are equally grateful you are in theirs. This seemingly complex dish is seriously simple, yet impressive in flavor and presentation. In keeping with the simple theme, put together an effortless appetizer (maybe like this one), make a good seasonal salad (like this one), and make an easy dessert (like this one). Serve your favorite beverages, sit back, and enjoy some uninterrupted, quality time with friends. 

Recipe

Cider Roasted Pork Tenderloins w/ Homemade Applesauce (slight adaptation to Ina Garten's Cider Roasted Pork Tenderloin recipe in her cooking "Cooking for Jeffrey")

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

Cider Roasted Pork Tenderloins

12 ounces fresh, organic or hard cider (found in the refrigerated section of the grocery store)

1/4 cup Grade A maple syrup

3 Tablespoons Kosher salt

1 teaspoon whole fennel seeds

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander or 1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 inch piece of fresh ginger, very thinly sliced

1 1/2 Tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh rosemary

2 pork tenderloins (1 1/2 - 2 1/2 pounds each) (See Notes)

Good quality olive oil

Kosher salt and black pepper for seasoning

Homemade Applesauce

Directions

Cider Roasted Pork Tenderloins

1. In a large measuring glass or bowl with a spout, whisk together the apple cider, maple syrup, and Kosher salt. 

2. Using a mortar and pestle, grind the fennel, peppercorns, coriander, and cinnamon together until partially ground. Add to the cider mixture.

3. Place the tenderloins in a large one gallon ziplock bag. Pour in the marinade. Add in the sliced ginger and rosemary. Remove as much air out of the bag as possible. Seal and refrigerate the tenderloins at least eight hours but preferably overnight.

4. Preheat oven to 450 degrees (F).

5. Remove the tenderloins from the marinade. Dry them with paper towels. Place on a sheet pan. Drizzle 1-2 Tablespoons of olive oil over the tenderloins. Season with 1 teaspoons of Kosher salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper.

6. Roast the tenderloins for 20-25 minutes or until a meat thermometer reads 130 degrees (F). Remove from the oven, cover tightly with aluminum foil and let rest for 10 minutes. SEE NOTES.

7. Cut the tenderloins diagonally into 1/2 inch pieces. Transfer to a serving platter. Pour the pan juices over the sliced tenderloins.

8. Serve with the Homemade Applesauce.

Homemade Applesauce

Notes: (1) I used two 2 1/2 pound pork tenderloins. (2) Use only fresh, bottled organic, or hard cider. With the possible exception of the hard cider, use only cider found in the refrigerated section of the grocery store. (3) If you are roasting tenderloins less than two pounds each, begin checking for doneness at the 15 minute mark. (4) Instead of homemade applesauce, you could also serve the pork tenderloins with a homemade or good quality plum chutney.

Smoky Mountain National Park, Gatlinburg, Tennessee (October 2021)

Apple Butter

In late September we went apple picking for Honey Crisp apples. This year we picked not one, but two bushels of apples as they are our favorites. Other than eating them, maybe baking an apple tart or two, adding them in salads, and making homemade applesauce with them, I thought these would be the only ways we would be reaping the benefits of our harvest this year. However, after having dinner at The Appalalacian Restaurant in Sevierveille, Tennessee during a recent trip to Smoky Mountain National Park, I knew I had to use some of those apples to make one more thing. Apple Butter. As I was inspired by the cheesecake topped with sautéed apples and placed on a bed of homemade apple butter dessert we had ordered. Little did I know how easy it actually was to make. Subsequently, I also discovered many of my friends loved apple butter. I mean really loved homemade apple butter.

After getting home from a perfect week in the Smoky Mountains, I channeled my inner pioneer spirit and went on the hunt for apple butter recipes. With my fingers crossed this pursuit would be more successful than finding a bottle of Blanton's Bourbon in Kentucky was, I made the deep dive down the apple butter recipe rabbit hole. Although along the way I learned a few things. Like the fact that apple butter doesn't contain any dairy or butter. Rather the word butter is used to describe its' butter-like thick, soft consistency. One achieved after a very long, slow cooking of the apples to the point where the apples are caramelized resulting in a deep brown, highly concentrated version of applesauce. With its' flavor enhanced by the warming spices, apple butter is damned delicious whether spread on grilled or toasted bread (cinnamon raisin is my favorite choice), used to garnish a dessert (like cheesecake), spooned over some vanilla ice cream, stirring into oatmeal or yogurt, added to marinades, used as an ingredient in a cake or pie, or used as glaze. In other words, apple butter has quite the versatility of uses.

One of the most significant differences between applesauce and apple butter is the time it takes to make each of them. The cooking time for applesauce is generally under an hour, while apple butter's cooking time can range from eleven to twelve hours. Yes, you read that correctly and that wasn't a typo. Eleven to twelve hours of cooking time in a slow cooker. The investment of time making apple butter is one you won't regret. And don't let it sway you away from making it as it's relatively easy to make. Scouts honor.

Discovering the type of apples used to make apple butter is a slightly contentional one amongst apple butter purists had me beginning to second guess my apple choice. Little did I know there were some rather strong opinions about which apples to use. Ranging from using tart apples to sweet apples to even dried apples, the varieties of apples most often recommended for making apple butter were Fugi, Golden Delicious, Cortland, Braeburn, MacIntosh, Gravenstein, Granny Smith, and (yes) Honey Crisp. My apple choices would be Honey Crisps and Granny Smiths, but with a higher ratio of Honey Crisps. To peel or not to peel was yet another decision to make. Because peels can add both flavor and texture, my recipe would include the peels. And as expected, the peels broke down completely in the long, slow cooking process. 

Many apple recipes use cinnamon as the primary spice ingredient. Some call for varying amounts of nutmeg, allspice, and cloves. This recipe used all of them with cinnamon being the star spice. Apple butter is made with both brown sugar and granulated sugar. To create an even deeper brown color and greater depth of flavor, I used equal parts of light and dark brown sugar along with the granulated sugar in making this apple butter. In addition to the apples, spices, and sugars, I used two other ingredients: maple syrup and vanilla. The maple syrup was added in at the start of the cooking process, however, the vanilla wasn't added until the apples were ready to be processed.

While most apple butters have a very smooth jam like consistency, the butter's texture is one heavily influenced by personal choice. Not as chunky as applesauce and not as smooth as jam, I processed the cooked apples to a texture somewhere in between the two. 

My favorite way to eat Apple Butter is slathering it on a thick piece of grilled or toasted Cinnamon Raisin Bread. But not before spreading on some soft cream cheese or room temperature butter. Pure bliss. It is also great swirled into a bowl of hot oatmeal or some vanilla yogurt, spread on an English Muffin, used as a topping for pancakes or waffles, poured over ice cream, and paired with a cheesecake topped with sautéed apples. 

As much as I am a fan of some good quality jams and preserves, no store-bought apple butter compares to  or rather I should say is as good as this rich, warmly spiced, gorgeous, deeply flavorful homemade version. And nothing harnesses the flavors and spirit of fall more than homemade apple butter.

Recipe
Apple Butter

Makes a little more than 3 pints 

Ingredients

6 pounds of apples, cored only (5 pounds of Honey Crisp apples and 1 pound of Granny Smith apples)

1/2 cup (105g) light brown sugar

1/2 cup (105g) dark brown sugar

3/4 cup (150g) granulated sugar

3 Tablespoons maple syrup

1 Tablespoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

1/8 teaspoon allspice

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla

Directions

1. In a medium sized bowl, mix together the brown sugars, granulated sugar, maple syrup, cinnamon, Kosher salt, nutmeg, cloves, and allspice until well blended. Set aside.

2. Cut the cored, unpeeled apples into 1/2 to 3/4 inch chunks. Add all of the apples to the slow cooker.

3. Add in the sugar/spice mixture to the apples and stir until the apples are coated.

4. Cook the apple mixture on low for 9 hours. Keep covered, but stir the apple mixture every couple of hours.

5. Remove the lid of the slow cooker and continue cooking the apples uncovered for two more hours, stirring occasionally. 

6. Stir in the vanilla and let the apple mixture rest for about 10 minutes before processing in a food processor to desired consistency. Note: You will do this in batches.

7. Spoon the apple butter into half-pint or pint jars. Cover tightly with a lid. Let cook slightly before storing in the refrigerator. If kept tightly sealed and chilled it will last up to two months in the refrigerator.

Notes: (1) Weigh your apples before you remove the cores. (2) I used a food processor for processing the cooked apples, but you could also use an immersion blender.

Scenes from a 17th century village in Plimoth Patuxet Museum, Plymouth, Massachusetts (October 2021)