Saturday, April 13, 2013

Homemade Ricotta

For weeks I have been anxiously awaiting the release of Alex Guarnaschelli's cookbook "Old-School Comfort Food: The Way I Learned to Cook" as I was curious as to what recipes, stories and lessons she would be sharing. My wait ended early this week. Fortunately I had a meeting near the Barnes and Noble bookstore on Tuesday, the day the cookbook was released. As soon as my meeting ended, I drove over (raced over would be a more accurate description) to pick up a copy.  Uncharacteristically I showed some restraint and waited until I got home late that evening to sit down to open it up. As I began going through her book, I felt as if I could hear her talking about each recipe.  There is nothing pretentious or intimidating in any of her recipes. Considering it is a cookbook written by an "Iron Chef" and "Food Network" star, I have to say I like Alex even more than I did before I bought the book. On so many levels, this cookbook was more genuine, more authentic, more real, more accessible than what I hoped it would be.


I needed, yes needed, to make something form this book over the weekend (more restraint) but knew that my attic painting project was going to consume much of my discretionary time.  So I had to choose a recipe that did not require a significant amount of my time or attention. The choice was simple, the homemade ricotta.  I have made ricotta before but her recipe looked a little simpler and from the photo much creamier.  If you have never had homemade ricotta spread on grilled bread with some really good honey drizzled over the top, you are missing something insanely, no actually, something wickedly delicious.  If you have only eaten ricotta bought at the grocery store, you might be thinking 'I don't think I missing much'.  Once you experience the taste of homemade ricotta, it's quite possible you will ever want to eat the store bought ricotta again and then you will know why it really is such a big deal.


This recipe has only three ingredients, yes three ingredient and there is not even any salt added. It's just heavy whipping cream, whole milk and buttermilk. It's hard to believe that these three ingredients can be transformed into something that tastes equally great all on its own or at breakfast served on toasted bread with jam or at a cocktail party served on a sliced, grilled baguette with a drizzle of honey or topped with some grilled vegetables.



When I buy heavy whipping cream, I always look to see how much saturated fat it contains.  For recipes where the cream is cooked, I look for at least a 17% saturated fat content.  When using heavy whipping cream to create frostings or whipped toppings, I look for at least an 18% saturated fat content.


Once all three ingredients are measured and put into the a heavy medium-sized saucepan you stir until combined.  That is the first and last time you will stir the mixture.  It is simmered on the stove for 30-35 minutes.  I simmered for 35 minutes.  With the milk solids rising to the top, you then turn off the heat and let sit on the stove for 10-15 minutes to let cool slightly.  I let sit for 15 minutes.


While the mixture is cooling on the stove, line a strainer with cheesecloth and put over a large bowl.  You want to be certain that your strainer does not touch the bottom of the bowl or it will not drain properly.


You use a spoon to remove the milk solids and place on top of the cheesecloth.  Any remaining liquid is then poured over the curds.


The ricotta drains for several hours or overnight, covered with cellophane in the refrigerator.  I waited six hours (some restraint). When making this recipe my solids were very small and at first I was a little concerned thinking that I somehow messed up. My concerns were alleviated once the mixture fully drained. Not only did the ricotta set up perfectly, it had a very creamy but spreadable texture. It was ricotta perfection.


After draining, the ricotta is removed from the cheesecloth and put into a jar.  It will keep, if covered, for up to a week.



As soon as it was set up, I grilled a french baguette, spread some the ricotta and then drizzled honey over the top.  The taste was literally 'over the top' good.  If there is such a place as homemade ricotta nirvana, I went there.  And after spending most of the afternoon painting over deep red and blue walls with white paint, this was all the reward I needed to not get overwhelmed with the amount of work it takes to cover darkly painted walls.

Recipe
Homemade Ricotta (recipe as is from Alex Guarnaschelli)

Ingredients
1 cup heavy whipping cream (organic recommended)
1/2 cup whole milk (organic recommended)
1/2 cup buttermilk

Directions
1. Add all three ingredients to a medium sized, heavy saucepan.
2. Simmer gently until the milk solids rise to the surface and form what looks like a raft.  This will take approximately 30 to 35 minutes.
3. Turn off heat and let cool for approximately 10-15 minutes.
4. Line a strainer with a few layers of cheesecloth and set over a bowl.
5. Scoop the solids from the surface of the milk mixture and place into the cheesecloth lined strainer.
6. Pour remaining liquid over the solids.
7. Refrigerate in the strainer for several hours (I waited 6 hours) or preferably overnight to allow all of the liquid to drain out and for the ricotta to firm up slightly.
8. Remove the cheesecloth from the ricotta and put in a dish or jar.  Cover and return to the refrigerator or serve.


Now having lived in this small farmhouse for almost a year, I have experienced all four seasons. Summer was glorious here. Deep blue hydrangeas surrounded the front of the house, a large sage bush bordered one end of the patio and the herbs that I planted all thrived. The fall colors were spectacular and so were the skies.  Even thought we had a hurricane, the winds didn't do any damage to the trees or the vegetation.  The immense perfectly shaped holly tree in the backyard made the winter landscape even more beautiful, especially on a freshly fallen snow day. I could have done without the blizzard, but that experience tested my resiliency. Now that spring has arrived, there have been many surprises.  I did not know that there were hundreds of grape hyacinths on the east and north sides of the house. Nor did I know that there were hundreds of daffodils, all different varieties, planted against the stone walls. And in spite of the wicked winter, all of the herbs I had planted, including the rosemary and lavender, are all coming back to life, appearing to be stronger and healthier.

Growing up in the midwest and now living on the east coast, I have had a lifetime experiencing all four seasons.  While my two favorite seasons are summer and fall, I love the changes and the gifts each of them brings and inspires. As much as I like some level of predictability in my life, change continues to shape my view of life, of people, of friendships and relationships, and of course, food. Had I stayed in my ricotta recipe comfort zone, I would not have experienced the taste of the creamy, divinely delicious homemade ricotta shared by Alex. Yes, it could have not lived up to the recipe I was using and it would  have probably been safer to just settle with the recipe that I knew and grown comfortable with.  But sometimes, something or someone comes along and it changes you, your perspective, your life, almost always for the better.