Thursday, May 22, 2014

Creamy Homemade Ricotta with Berries

Memorial Day weekend is synonymous with the unofficial beginning of the summer season. I am one who has been aching for the return of warmer weather, backyard barbecues and picnics. Food served and eaten outside just seems to taste better. The summer solstice and longest day of the year are weeks away, however, when they finally arrive it feels as if summer is almost over, even though it will technically have just begun (maybe that perception is influenced by the racks of fall clothing department stores start putting out even before we celebrate the Fourth of July). For the towns located along lakes and oceans, the arrival of summer also means the return of the 'summer people'. When you live in one of those beautiful towns having both public and private beaches, you learn there are always a few locals that have a kind of love-hate relationship with the 'summer people'. It only takes a day to experience a traffic jam in a two-lane, no stop light town to understand this yin-yang perspective.


Summer also means the return of berry season. Strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and blueberries are some of best of nature's bounty and are at their seasonal peak here in the midwest during the summer months. Although locally grown berries are not yet available, the berries in the grocery stores now seem to look and even taste better than the ones sold during the winter. The blueberries and blackberries I picked up at the grocery store the other day were the reason (or I should were the excuse) why I had to make second batch of creamy homemade ricotta.

Some of you know this isn't the first time I have made ricotta.  Last April (2013) I shared Alex Guarnashcelli's Homemade Ricotta recipe. It was a ricotta that had me making the 'after one bite' assertion I was in ricotta nirvana. And I was, really. But after tasting this creamy homemade version, I had the Shangri-la experience all over again. Could there really be room in nirvana for more than one ricotta? Absolutely. However, I think this version of ricotta is my new favorite, possibly my newest obsession.


I have learned much about food in the past year and while I am much more informed, I am also a little confused. Conflicting information as well as the number of variations in how foods are prepared are generally the causes of my confusion. In the larger food world, there is never one right way, rather there are always preferred ways. The art and the science behind the creation of food can be at times both daunting and inspiring.

So before I go on any further talking about this amazing creamy ricotta, I must share with you that technically it isn't really a ricotta. True ricotta is made from leftover whey (a bi-product from the making of mozzarella or farmer's cheese) and not fresh milk. However, a recipe that doesn't meet the technical definition of ricotta isn't enough for me to call it by any other name.


Alex Guarnashcelli's ricotta was made with whole milk, heavy cream and buttermilk. This ricotta recipe is made with whole organic (versus ultra-pasteurized) milk, heavy cream, sea salt and fresh lemon juice. Buttermilk and lemon juice are both considered acids, however, they affect the taste and texture of the ricotta differently. The magic of ricotta happens when the acid is added to the heated milk causing the milk proteins to bind together, trap some of the moisture and fat, and form soft white curds. The curds formed from the acid are what give the ricotta its' texture.


In a medium-sized heavy saucepan, the whole organic milk, heavy whipping cream, sea salt are heated to a temperature of 190 degrees.  If you do not have a thermometer, you will be looking for the milk to come to a simmer or soft boil (there should be small bubbles formed on the milk along the perimeter of the pan). Once it reaches this temperature, turn off the heat and gently stir in three and a half tablespoons of freshly squeezed lemon juice. The entire mixture is allowed to settle for at least five minutes, but no more than 10 minutes before it is poured into a cheesecloth lined colander set over a deep bowl. (The second time I made the ricotta I gave it a rest time of 10 minutes with great results.)


The mixture should be allowed to drain for at least one hour, but no more than two hours. The longer the ricotta drains and sits out at room temperature the firmer it will be. The ricotta was perfectly set up at one hour and the result was a perfect creamy, spreadable texture.


Give the ricotta a light squeeze before removing from cheesecloth and transferring to a bowl. If you are not serving the ricotta immediately, cover with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for up to 3 or 4 days. Note: The texture of the ricotta will change (it will become firmer, similar to the texture of cream cheese) after it is refrigerated.

I prefer making crostini on a grill pan on top of the stove as it is quick and creates beautiful grill marks on both sides of the bread. However, you can make crostini placing slices of a french or ciabatta baguette in a 350 degree preheated oven until they are golden (baking time ranges from 15 to 20 minutes). 

I love the sweet and savory versatility of this creamy homemade ricotta. It can be part of an appetizer course or it can be the dessert course. Earlier in the week I served the ricotta with a side of honey on crostini made from a french baguette. Today I grilled slices of a ciabatta baguette, then topped the crostini with the ricotta, fresh berries and a drizzle of honey. It was pure deliciousness and it felt like summer had arrived. 

Recipe
Creamy Homemade Ricotta with Berries (inspired by Smitten Kitchen's Rich Homemade Ricotta recipe)

Ingredients
3 cups whole organic milk
1 cup heavy whipping cream
3 1/2 Tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon sea salt (recommend Maldon)
Ciabatta or french baguette, sliced and grilled or toasted
Blueberries and blackberries
Honey

Other serving options: roasted red peppers, fig preserves, just honey, thinly sliced cucumbers or zucchini, basil chiffonade, roasted grapes, olive oil and fine chopped fresh herbs (e.g., chives, dill, scallions), chopped grape tomatoes, basil and olive oil, etc.

Directions
1. Line a colander with cheesecloth and place over a deep measuring cup or bowl.
2. Place cream, milk and salt in a heavy medium sized saucepan. Heat to a temperature of 190 degrees (mixture will come to a soft boil).
3. Turn off heat and add 3 1/2 Tablespoons of fresh lemon juice. Stir gently with a wooden spoon for 15 seconds. Allow to sit undisturbed for 10 minutes.
4. Pour mixture into colander and allow to drain for at least one hour but no more than two hours. Note: The longer the ricotta rests the firmer it will become.
5. Gently squeeze drained ricotta and transfer to a serving dish.
6. Serve immediately or cover and place in the refrigerator. 
7. Slice and grill a ciabatta or french baguette to toast. Spread ricotta on toasted crostinis and top with blueberries and blackberries. Drizzle honey over top of the fruit. 
Note: Ricotta topped crostini can be either sweet or savory, it all depends on the topping(s) you choose.


As much as I have always loved going on a real picnic, it has been years since I have gone on one. I love everything about picnics, from the making and packing up of the food to finding the perfect 'with a view' picnic location. But one doesn't need to pack up a picnic basket to go on a picnic. Takeout from a fast food restaurant or even the grocery store make it possible to go on an impromptu picnic, anytime, anywhere, weather permitting. An hour lunch spent outside can be incredibly more energizing than having that same lunch sitting in a restaurant or anywhere indoors. For me, the picnic experience is not as much about the food as it is about the person or persons you are sharing the experience with. Because every meal shared with a friend is always a better one.