Friday, January 4, 2019

Chicken Liver Pate Crostini (Crostini di Fegatini)


For the second year in a row we welcomed the new year in Door County, Wisconsin with friends. Last year the landscape was a frozen tundra and wind chills so far into the negative double digits we could barely stand to be outdoors for more than a few minutes. When we arrived this year, we were thrilled to discover there was barely any snow on the ground. And with winter air temperatures in the 30s we were able to spend time outdoors exploring and getting in a nice morning hike before the snow began to fall on New Year's Eve. After a fun evening of playing games and enjoying a great four-course home-cooked meal, we woke up to find a winter paradise on New Year's Day. Almost three inches of fresh snow blanketed the landscape making it the most beautiful, breathtaking start to the new year. After packing up the car for the return trip home, I couldn't leave without stopping at several of my most favorite places (Boynton Chapel, Cave Point County Park, and the Coast Guard Lighthouse) to savor the tranquility as well as take some photos. With a backdrop of freshly fallen snow, these iconic places were even more compelling. I almost didn't want to leave. 


Our New Year's Eve appetizers included a charcuterie board, Rosemary Roasted Cashews, and a Parmesan and Lemon Artichoke Spread. But it didn't include the Chicken Liver Pate Crostini, the one getting rave reviews at our Christmas Dinner. The only reason I didn't was because there were only so many pans and serving pieces I wanted to pack up for the three day, two night trip.


Described as a 'rustic, tasty, cheap, and sensible crostini and commonplace on the menus of every trattoria in Florence as well as on family tables for every special occasion', there is nothing common about it. Apparently there are a significant number of recipes for 'Crostini di Fegatini' found in Tuscany. Emiko Davies, author of the cookbook "Florentine: The True Cuisine of Florence"), shared most are usually made with anchovies, capers or both in order to provide the trademark Tuscan saltiness flavor. The texture of the pate varies from chunky, to smooth, to a blend of the two. While most genererally cook the livers n red wine, stock or water, the recipe shared by Emiko Davies uses vin santo (a family preference). Having intense, velvety, and complex flavors, vin santo is usually served as an apertif or with dessert. However, it works brilliantly and beautifully in the pate.


Other than leaving out the walnuts and adjusting some of the cooking times, I used the same ingredients and amounts recommended in the recipe shared by Emiko Davies. I processed the pate until its' texture was a cross between chunky and smooth. It was pure pate perfection!


Unlike other pates I have made, this one is intended to be served warm or at room temperature. Which means it's not one made too far ahead of time. As a side note, the chilled leftover pate was still delicious.


Instead of toasting the crostini in the oven, I grilled mine on the stovetop using this cast iron grill pan. To make them in the oven, preheat it to 275 degrees (F). Lay the bread rounds on a large baking sheet and bake for 5 minutes on each side or until they are dry to the touch but not browned.


For those of you who aren't particularly a big fan of pate, this one might change how you think about it. Unlike some of the French versions of pate, this Chicken Liver Pate is simple, rustic, non-pretentious fare. One bite and you immediately understand why it is considered to be one of the beloved dishes in Florence. Having already made it twice in the last couple of weeks, it's also destined to be a beloved entertaining staple here in our home. Although I seriously think I could eat it everyday. 

"May your coming year be filled with magic and dreams and good madness. I hope you read some fine books and kiss someone who thinks you're wonderful, and don't forget to make some art or write or draw or build or sing or live as only you can live. And I hope somewhere in the next year you surprise yourself." (Neil Gaiman) Happy New Year! And happy adventurous cooking, baking, and eating in the new year ahead!

Recipe
Chicken Liver Pate Crostini (inspired by the Crostini di Fegatini recipe from the cookbook "Florentine: The True Cuisine of Florence")

Ingredients
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
1 Tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
5-6 capers, rinsed and dried
2 anchovy filets
18 ounces chicken livers
3 1/2 ounces vin santo or marsala
2-3 toasted walnuts (optional)
Kosher salt and black pepper
Baguette (14-16 ounce size) cut into 1/2 inch rounds, grilled

Directions
1. In a wide frying pan, add olive and one tablespoon of butter cooking over medium-low heat. Add onions after butter melts. Cook onions until translucent (approximately 8-10 minutes).
2. Add capers and anchovies. Continue to cook gently until the anchovies have completely melted down (approximately 2-3 minutes).
3. Add chicken livers and cook until browned on all sides.
4. Add vin santo (and walnuts if using). Cook on low (uncovered) for approximately 20-25 minutes. Add water if necessary to keep the mixture moist.
5. Remove from heat. Season with kosher salt and pepper. Add the remaining tablespoon of butter. Allow the butter to melt. Mix and taste for seasoning. If necessary add more salt and/or pepper.
6. Transfer the warm mixture to a food processor. Blend until mostly smooth. If you prefer your pate very smooth, continue processing until it reaches your desired texture. Note: I liked it somewhere between chunky and smooth.
7. Transfer pate to a serving dish. Serve the pate warm with crostini. Alternately serve the pate at room temperature.

Notes: (1) I used a good quality vin santo. (2) I didn't add the walnuts to the pate. (3) I prefer using capers packed in salt versus in a liquid. (4) I used a Vin Santo Del Chianti Classico, a bottle my sister brought be back from Florence a couple of years ago.  (5) For a perfect presentation, serve the Chicken Liver Pate Crostini with paper-thin slices of prosciutto and wedges of an aged pecorino or parmigiano-reggiano cheese.

 '
Freshly fallen snow on the grounds of Boynton Chapel on New Year's Day 2019  (Baileys Harbor, Wisconsin)