"The real voyage of discovery consists, not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes." (Marcel Proust). This may be one of my most favorite quotes of all time. And as I was driving on the two lane backroads, in relatively nearby Indiana farm country on a stormy day last week, these words came to mind. I have driven on these roads for more than thirty years, yet the familiar landscape often feels a bit unfamiliar. Some of that has to do with the change in seasons or the weather conditions, but often my eye is drawn to something either previously overlooked or unseen. For more than an hour, the storm cloud filled skies turned me into a kind of storm chaser. The contrast of the dark, gloomy, black, blue and gray skies set against the harvested golden brown cornfields and emerging spring blooms transformed the familiar farmscape into an unfamiliar, mesmerizing one. Making it feel as if this was both the first time and the hundredth time I had been there.
I have often applied that quote not only to landscapes or places traveled, but to relationships as well as to food. So let's take Potato Gnocchi in Fontina Cream Sauce (aka Gnocchi Alla Bava) as an example of my generalized way of thinking. It might be a stretch of the imagination to put this classic, traditional dish from Northern Italy in the same category of the American version of mac and cheese. And it kind of, sort of is. Both are simple, hearty versions of a pasta in a cheese sauce dish. However, that is where their similarities end. Because pillowy potato gnocchi coated in a rich, creamy Fontina Cheese Sauce takes the concept of mac/cheese to a whole new level of drool worthiness. When topped with buttery, toasted panko crumbs you will never look at pasta in a cheese sauce the same ever again.
Intended to be more of a first course or even a side dish, the Potato Gnocchi in Fontina Cream Sauce is almost too decadent to be a main course. But if paired with a salad and a glass of wine, it's nothing short of having mindblowing comfort food.
This would probably be the time when I tell you I have not yet mastered making homemade potato gnocchi. Because I am fortunate to live near an Italian speciality store that sells the pillowiest potato gnocchi I haven't had the need to. Which means this recipe doesn't include one for homemade gnocchi. So for those of you who, like me, are not gnocchi masters buy the best (and that doesn't mean the most expensive) potato gnocchi you can find. There are some really good fresh and frozen versions available at some grocery stores if you aren't lucky enough to have a great Italian store within driving distance. While this may seem a bit snobbish, whatever you do, do not buy the gnocchi found in the section of packaged pasta in the grocery store. As the tender, light, pillowy gnocchi is an essential ingredient in this dish.
Equally important is the creamy, semi-soft, nutty, buttery Fontina cheese. If can find Fontina Valle D'Acosta DOP, the one made in Italy's Acosta Valley since the 12th century, buy it. If you can't buy a good quality one (like this one from BelGioioso). Unlike other cheese sauces made with a roux, this sauce is made with nothing more than cubed pieces of Fontina cheese, heavy cream, unsalted butter, Kosher salt, and black pepper.
Simplicity never tasted so good. So why add some buttery, toasted panko crumbs on top as it's definitely not part of the traditional Gnocchi Alla Bava dish? Let's suffice to say I like going rouge. But no really, the added texture and flavor of the panko crumbs perfectly complimented the rich, heartiness of the dish. If I were to do one thing differently, it would be to sprinkle the crumbs all over the top rather than only sprinkling a small amount and serving the rest on the side. However, either option works.
I would use words like simple, elegant, ethereal, mouthwatering, decadent, and divine to describe this Potato Gnocchi in Fontina Cream Sauce (aka Gnocchi Alla Bava). And still those words would still not do adequate justice to just how seriously good it is. It has been a long time since I have put something on my 'last meal' list. But today, I would be remiss if I didn't tell you this dish will be going on the top of that exclusive list.
Recipe
Potato Gnocchi in Fontina Cream Sauce (aka Gnocchi Alla Bava)
Serves 6 as main dish or 8 as side or first course dish
Ingredients
2 pounds (908g) potato gnocchi (preferably fresh, homemade, or available from your favorite Italian speciality store), made in accordance with package instructions (Note: Reserve about a half cup of the cooked gnocchi before adding to the sauce. Then determine if there is enough sauce to coat the reserved gnocchi).
1 cup heavy cream
8 ounces (226g) rind free Fontina cheese, cut into 1/2" pieces (recommend BelGioioso)
2 Tablespoons (28g) unsalted butter
Kosher salt to taste
1 cup (76g) panko crumbs
4 Tablespoons (56g) unsalted butter
Freshly ground pepper
Freshly ground nutmeg
Directions
1. In a small saucepan, melt four tablespoons of unsalted butter. Add in the panko crumbs. Stir until the crumbs have turned golden in color. Remove from the heat and set aside.
2. Bring a pot of lightly salted water to a boil. You will want to add in the fresh or frozen gnocchi as soon as your sauce is ready.
3. In a medium sized saucepan set over medium heat, add in the heavy cream, cubed Fontina cheese, unsalted butter, some black pepper and freshly grated nutmeg. Whisk constantly until the cheese has completely melted and the sauce is smooth and creamy. Remove from the heat. Taste to determine if any salt is needed.
4. Cook the gnocchi according to package directions, drain well, and then add to the sauce.
5. Return to heat (to rewarm sauce if necessary), stir to combine, then transfer to a serving platter.
6. Top with some freshly grated black pepper and nutmeg. Followed by a generous sprinkling of the toasted panko crumbs over the top. Serve immediately. Alternately sprinkle the crumbs down the center of the dish and serve the remaining crumbs on the side.
Notes: (1) Inspired by multiple Gnocchi Alla Bava recipes. (2) My potato gnocchi was (frozen) homemade and purchased at a local Italian speciality store. If not making homemade potato gnocchi, look for a good quality potato gnocchi (preferably one fresh or frozen). (3) To keep the Potato Gnocchi in Fontina Cream Sauce warm, place in a 225 degree (F) oven if not serving within 5 minutes of finishing the dish. (4) Reheat any leftovers in the microwave.
Storm clouds over Indiana farmlands (April 2021)