Old Fashioned

While almost everyone in the blog world has been posting recipes for holiday cookies and confections in recent weeks, we took a first time whirlwind trip Nashville with friends for several days. I could say it has taken me a week to recover and catch my breath from three days of non-stop concert going, bar hopping, eating, sightseeing, as well as hat and boot shopping, but I would be lying. In spite of uncharacteristically day drinking on this trip, I'm happy to report it took me less than a day to get caught back up in the holiday shopping and baking frenzy. But honestly, I wish I was back in Nashville sipping a cocktail and listening to some really good music. Okay, and maybe going on the hunt for a third pair of cowboy boots. From listening to music in the iconic Blue Bird Cafe and Ryman Auditorium as well in some of the more famous honky-tonks on Broadway, to spending a few hours at the Cheekwood Estate and Gardens, to eating hot chicken at Prince's and Hattie B's (jury is out on which is better), to enjoying breakfast and dinner at some pretty amazing places, to just taking in Nashville's interesting architecture, I loved everything about that city. So why had it taken me so long to get there? Not sure I even know. But I am now available to be a tour guide to the capital city of country music! 

My relatively recently acquired taste for Bourbon whiskey served me well while I was in Nashville. Along with trying a Bushwacker for the first time (talk about a boozy milkshake) and drinking Ranch Waters, the timeless, classic Old Fashioned was my cocktail of choice on this trip. After sampling them at several different places, I discovered I am a bit of an Old-Fashioned fussytarian (is anyone surprised?). I definitely prefer them being made with a good Bourbon whiskey, garnished with both an orange peel and cherries (Luxardo cherries please), and a little on the sweeter side. 

Old Fashioned cocktails have been around since the 1800s. Some might say the Old Fashioned isn't really a cocktail. Just a glass of whiskey sweetened with some sugar and bitters. However, if you have ever had a great Old Fashioned you know it's a whole lot more than just a glass of whiskey. 

Like pretty much everything, great food and great cocktails usually begins with great ingredients. With a little bit of personal preference thrown in there too. And when it comes to the Old Fashioned there are no shortage of opinions on the brand of Bourbon (or rye) whiskey to use, the type of sweetener (sugar cubes or simple syrup), the kind and quantity of bitters, the citrus fruit (orange or lemon) garnish, the ice (one large cube or a handful of smaller cubes), and last but not least, the cherries. There are even a plethora of opinions on the amount of time the Old Fashioned should be stirred. 

 

The ingredient having the biggest influence on the taste of the Old Fashioned is going to be the bourbon whiskey. I happen to love the flavors of vanilla, molasses, toffee, mint, dark fruit, and anise found in Buffalo Trace Bourbon. For me it's my absolutely first choice when making this cocktail. But you will find a number of the 'best bourbons for an old-fashioned' recommendations if you look for them. Among some of those frequently mentioned are Elijah Wood Small Batch, Four Roses Small Batch or Single Barrel, Basil Hayden, Angel's Envy, and Maker's Mark. The flavor profile of the Old-Fashioned will differ slightly depending on which bourbon you choose. More expensive bourbons generally have a deeper oak, caramel and vanilla notes. So choose well and wisely.

Some Old-Fashioneds call for the use of a sugar cube muddled in water, while others call for the use of a simple syrup. This one uses a simple syrup made with equal parts Turbinado sugar. and water (see notes) to add a nuanced complexity and depth of flavor to the cocktail. 

To muddle or to spritz, that is the question with regard to the orange peel. And the answer is.....spritz! Spritzing gives the Old-Fashioned just the right amount of sweetness. Now to the cherry garnish. Which one and how many? The options for cherries include maraschino or ones in heavy syrup (like Maraska or Luxardo). If you are looking to create a really great Old Fashioned, use cherries in heavy syrup (save the maraschino for topping a sundae). And three of them on a cocktail skewer just seems to be the perfect number. Now to the bitters. You will find some Old Fashioned recipes call for the use of only kind of bitter and anywhere from 2 to 6 dashes. In the spirit of more is better, this one uses two different kinds: Orange bitters and Peychaud's Aromatic Cocktail Bitters. And three dashes of each. Last, but not least, is the ice. One large cube or a handful of cubes? The benefits of using one large ice cube is it is slow to melt and less likely to water down the cocktail. You want your Old Fashioned chilled, but not diluted. 

Like taking forever to get myself to Nashville, my appreciation and affinity for a really good (dare I say great?) Old Fashioned took almost as long. While I should have been influenced by my Old Fashioned loving friends (especially the girl from Minnesota aka the one who sometimes dons a 'Just call me Old-Fashioned' t-shirt) some years back, I only loved to drink bourbon a few short years ago. But like they say 'good things come to those who wait'. Although if you love bourbon or bourbon whiskey, think 'sooner rather than later' to enjoy this classic, timeless cocktail. Cheers!

Recipe

Old Fashioned

Makes 1 really good cocktail

Ingredients

2 teaspoons chilled simple syrup (see Notes)

3 dashes Orange bitters

3 dashes Peychaud's Aromatic Cocktail Bitters (or can use Angostura Aromatic Bitters)

1 large ice cube

2 ounces of Bourbon or Rye Whiskey (Buffalo Trace, Russell's, etc.)

1 orange peel (about 1 inch wide and about 3 inches long) 

3 Luxardo cherries

Directions

1. Add the two teaspoons of simple syrup followed by three dashes of the Orange and Aromatic bitters to a cocktail glass. 

2. Add in one large ice cube.

3. Pour in two ounces of a good quality bourbon or bourbon whiskey. Gently stir for at least thirty, but preferably sixty seconds.

4. Give the orange peel a squirt and add to the glass.

5. Place three Luxardo cherries on a cocktail skewer and place in the glass. Alternately drop a couple of cherries into the glass.

6. Now sit back and savor. Maybe put on some Old Dominion, The National, Carly Pearce, Dan and Shay, Zac Brown, Little Big Town, Lady A, Jason Aldean, or Chris Stapleton to create a bourbon whiskey drinking mood.

Notes: (1) Some like a little sweeter Old Fashioned. If you do, use 1 Tablespoon of simple syrup. (2) To make the simple syrup add one cup of water and one cup of Turbinado sugar to a saucepan. Bring to a boil, whisking occasionally, until the sugar has melted. Let cool. Store in a bottle or jar. Store in the refrigerator. Simple syrup will be good for at least one month. 

Broadway in Nashville (December 2021)

Dark Chocolate Peanut Butter Fudge Sauce

 

I had every intention of kicking off the month of December, aka holiday baking season, with a new cookie recipe. But those plans changed after I made this ridiculously delicious, drop-the-mic, shut the front door Dark Chocolate Peanut Butter Fudge Sauce. I thought you needed this sinfully luscious fudge sauce in your life sooner rather than later. Because instead of, or maybe in addition to gifting your family and friends with a box of homemade cookies, you just might want to gift them a jar of this Dark Chocolate Peanut Butter Fudge Sauce. Throw in a gift certificate to their favorite ice cream store and you will be in contention for the best ever, most thoughtful gift giver!

And, if by chance, they happen to have a serious soft spot for chocolate and peanut butter, this simple gift will prove the best gifts are not always the most expensive, the most sought after, or the trendiest ones. They are often the simplest, most thoughtful ones. And, the best part of gifting friends/family with a jar of this sauce is that everything you need to make it is not sitting in a container docked offshore somewhere. 

If there was ever a fudge sauce to take serving a bowl of ice cream for dessert from good to great, it would be this Dark Chocolate Peanut Butter Fudge Sauce. 

The fudge sauce takes less than twenty minutes to make. Other than chopping the unsweetened chocolate and cutting the butter into pieces, there is no other advance prep you need to do. No letting ingredients come to room temperature, no letting it rest for hours or overnight, or no patiently waiting for the mixture to reach a certain temperature. All you need a good heavy bottomed saucepan, a whisk. a scale to measure out your ingredients, and some good quality glass jars.

The directions for making the fudge sauce are pretty straightforward. In other words, it's really easy to make.

One taste of this insane, heavenly Dark Chocolate Peanut Butter Fudge Sauce and you may never again want to adorn your ice cream with a jar of store-bought fudge sauce. 

While I think it's the perfect topping for a bowl of ice cream, you could also pour this fudge sauce over brownies, a slice of pound cake, or a bowl of sliced bananas. I would tell you to try resist eating it right out of the jar but as a chocolate-peanut butter lover that would be foolish advice.

This Dark Chocolate Peanut Butter Fudge Sauce checks off all of the holiday 'food' gift giving boxes. It's a gift made with love, it's the right kind of decadent, it's easy to make, it's ridiculously scrumptious, it's perfect for the person who has everything or wants for nothing, and it's destined turn anything it's poured on into a euphoric eating experience. And more than likely you will be making this fudge sauce long after the holidays are over. 

Recipe

Dark Chocolate Peanut Butter Fudge Sauce

Makes 2 cups

Ingredients

1 1/4 cups (250g) granulated sugar

2/3 cup whole milk

5/8 teaspoon Kosher salt

1/3 cup (28g) unsweetened Dutch chocolate cocoa (see notes)

3 ounces (88g) unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped

4 Tablespoons (57g) unsalted butter, cut into 16 pieces

1/4 cup (56g) creamy peanut butter (I used JIF)

1 teaspoon vanilla 

Flaky sea salt for finishing

Directions

1. In a heavy bottomed medium sized saucepan, heat the sugar, milk, and Kosher salt over medium heat. Gently whisk until sugar has dissolved and sugar has completely dissolved. When the mixture begins to bubble around the edges of the pan (about 4-5 minutes), reduce heat to low, and whisk in the cocoa until smooth.

2. Remove from the heat and stir in the chocolate. Let stand for 3 minutes. Whisk sauce until the chocolate is fully melted.

3. Add in the butter and whisk until the sauce thickens slightly.

4. Whisk in the peanut butter until fully incorporated.

5. Whisk in the vanilla.

6. Pour into glass jars (see notes). Top each jar with a lightly sprinkling of flaky sea salt.

7. Unless serving immediately, let the sauce cool. Cover and store in the refrigerator. Sauce will keep up to one month in the refrigerator.

8. Heat the chilled sauce in a small pan or in a microwave and pour over your favorite ice cream.

Notes: (1) Use good quality glass jars (e.g., Weck, Ball) for store the sauce in. The recipe makes 2 cups. Use pint or half pint jars. (2) I used the King Arthur Double Dutch Dark Cocoa Powder but would highly recommend Droste Dutch Processed Cocoa. (3) Do not use a 'natural' peanut butter when making this sauce.

Small Batch Blueberry Muffins

Last week I made a batch of Blueberry Muffins. I liked them, but I wasn't sure I loved them enough to make them blog worthy. So I tinkered with the recipe and made a new batch aka version two. Before even tasting the second batch, I knew these would be everything I hoped they would be and then some. But hey, hold on a second. Hadn't I already shared the Best Ever Blueberry Muffins recipe with you eight years ago? So why on earth am I doing a happy dance over these Small Batch Blueberry Muffins? There has to be, there must be, at least one good reason why. And it can't be because I am pitting one blueberry muffin recipe against the other. 

A few weeks ago when I shared the recipe for the White Chocolate Cranberry Pecan Muffins (small batch) I said there would be more small batch muffin recipes coming in the weeks ahead. Well. I am keeping my promise. As much as I value having promises kept (and I do), that's not the reason why I am sharing the recipe for these Small Batch Blueberry Muffins with you. Having a recipe that makes just six beautiful, scrumptious muffins is one of those must-haves in our lives. Cutting a recipe for twelve muffins in half isn't the same as having a recipe making only six. Because sometimes flavor and texture get lost in translation when recipes are altered. 

Had I not already used the words 'best ever' in describing the first and only other blueberry muffin recipe shared all those years ago, I would be inclined to use those same words to describe these blueberry muffins. Maybe I could have called them the Best Ever Small Batch Blueberry Muffins, but even I would think it a bit much if every blueberry muffin recipe I posted was considered best ever. But let the words 'best ever' be amongst the first words you say when you taste them.

Without trying to cause any confusion here, I feel it's important to share the differences between the version one and version two recipes. Version one was made with canola oil, not butter; was made with toasted walnuts; had only one teaspoon of baking powder; and, had way too many blueberries. Version two was made with unsalted butter, the right amount of blueberries, had 1 1/8 teaspoons baking powder and was nut free. These simple changes created night and day differences between the two of them, particularly in texture and the ability to get them out of the muffin tin. Which explains why you won't ever see the recipe for version one.

Having seen how giving thick muffin batter resting time makes a difference, these domed, moist, golden brown, crunchy on top Small Batch Blueberry Muffins were allowed to rest for an hour before they went into a preheated 400 degree (F) oven. These muffins baked at only one constant temperature.

But unlike the technique of filling the empty muffin cavities with water to keep the pan from warping and the muffins baking evenly, I utilized the dried beans used in blind baking pie shells instead. And honestly, I loved this method so much better! 

Baking time for these muffins ranged somewhere between 22 and 26 minutes (I kept resetting the timer for two minute intervals at the 22 minute mark). Once baked the muffin tin was placed on a cooling rack and allowed to rest for at least 15 minutes before each muffin was carefully removed.

There are two keys to having beautifully browned sides and bottoms on sinfully good muffins. The first is baking them in a non-stick muffin pan liberally sprayed with oil or baking spray. And the second is placing the muffin pan on a large sheet pan when baking the muffins. Using paper liners might might pan clean up easier, but not all paper liners are created equal. Inexpensive liners will often dissolve during the baking process making it almost impossible to peel them away from the muffin. Taller liners may prevent the tops of the muffins from getting deep golden brown. So for me the best textured, most flavorful, and almost too pretty to eat muffins are ones made in a great non-stick pan and ensuring the muffin tin is well prepared. Save the muffin liners for after the muffins are baked.

These Small Batch Blueberry Muffins had that kind of bakery style cake like texture and crunch I love so much. The ratio of blueberries to muffin cake was just about perfect. These muffins are so flavorful they really don't need to be slathered in some butter. However, in this season of indulgence, a schmear of butter seemed to be one of those irresistible finishing touches. 

Instead of bringing over a tray of cookies or baking a loaf of your favorite bread this holiday season, why not bake up a batch of these Small Batch Blueberry Muffins and deliver them to friends and/or neighbors on a Saturday or Sunday morning. I promise it will be the most unanticipated, memorable, "best ever" delicious surprise they receive!

Recipe

Small Batch Blueberry Muffins

Makes 6 muffins

Ingredients

1 1/4 cups (165g) all-purpose flour

1 1/8 teaspoons baking powder

3/8 teaspoon Kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 cup (2 ounces) whole milk, room temperature

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/4 cup (2 ounces) unsalted butter, room temperature

1 large egg, room temperature

3/4 cup (150g) granulated sugar

1 1/4 cups (184g) whole blueberries, room temperature, divided

6 teaspoons of granulated sugar for finishing

Sparkling sugar for finishing

Directions

1. In a small bowl, add the vanilla to the milk. Set aside while assembling the rest of the ingredients.

2. In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, cinnamon, and Kosher salt. Set aside.

3. In the bowl of a standing mixer beat together the sugar and butter for about 3-4 minutes.

4. Add in the egg and beat for one minute until batter has increased in volume and is light in color.

5. On low speed, add in the sifted dry ingredients and milk/vanilla in five additions (starting and ending with the dry ingredients).

6. Fold in all but about 18-20 blueberries with a spatula or wooden spoon. Let the batter rest covered with plastic wrap at room temperature for 60 minutes. The batter will be very thick.

7. Preheat oven to 400 degrees (F). Generously spray six cavities of a 12 cup muffin tin or three cavities of two 6 cup muffin tins. Note: Remember to make certain there is an empty muffin space between each sprayed cavity.

8. Using a large ice cream scoop, fill each muffin cup cavity. You will have enough batter for 6 regular sized muffins. Lightly press the reserved blueberries, about 3-4 blueberries into the top of each muffin. Sprinkle the top of each muffin with a teaspoon of granulated sugar and a sprinkle of sparkling sugar.

9. Place muffin tin on a large baking sheet. Fill the empty cavities with pie weights or dried beans (2/3s full). Place muffin tin in oven.

10. Bake the muffins for 22-26 minutes (rotating the pan midway through the baking process) until golden, puffed and spring back when lightly pressed.

11. Remove from the oven and let muffins rest in the tin for 15-20 minutes.

12. Carefully remove the muffins with an offset spatula.  Serve warm or at room temperature. Muffins are best the day baked but will still be pretty gosh darn good for up to 2-3 days if they last that long.

Notes: (1) Highly recommend using only whole milk. The use of any other milks will affect the muffin's flavor and texture. (2) I used fresh blueberries. (3) To keep the exterior of the muffins crunchy, store them uncovered on a plate in the kitchen. (4) You can freeze the blueberry muffins once they completely come to room temperature, however, freezing muffins will slightly change the exterior texture when thawed. (5) If gifting the blueberry muffins, place each muffin in a paper cupcake liner and arrange in a box or on a platter.

Great Smoky Mountains, Gaitlinburg, Tennessee (October 2021)

Puff Pastry Bites

In slightly more than a week my favorite holiday of the year will be here. And for the first time ever my nephew and niece will be running my hometown Turkey Trot with me on Thanksgiving morning. To say that I am just a little bit excited about this would be an understatement. The last time we all ran together was when they were four and six years old, some twenty-four years ago. It's one of those memories that has stayed with me. And if I close my eyes I can actually relive the moment. The run was less than a half-mile and took place on a paved trail near our home. My nephew ran a steady pace with his uncle. But my niece. Well she went full out on a sprint rather than run steady with me. She hadn't even run a hundred yards before she her face was flushed and was completely winded. After catching up with her I suggested we just try to run steady. However, as soon as she caught her breath, off she went at a sprinting pace again. For a myriad of reasons, not including her fierce determination to run at a break neck speed, I laugh out loud every time I think back to our 'first' run together. This past fall she ran her first marathon at a pace slightly faster than my first one. So while I say we will be running the Turkey Trot together on Thanksgiving morning, suffice to say we will be running the same course. With any luck I will be somewhere close behind these two. And hopefully they will keep in mind there is a forty year difference between us and decide not to start off sprinting. 

Speaking of sprinting, that's how the holiday season usually feels for me. Even before Thanksgiving arrives I already feel the overwhelming rush to decorate, to bake, to shop for presents, to wrap presents, and to get the gifts sent out early (or at least in time for Christmas). These mere thoughts are exhausting. However, I made a really big decision. This is the year I am going to do a much better job at pacing myself and scaling back a bit. Maybe even taking time to enjoy the holidays sitting by the fire, having a glass of a favorite wine or enjoying my favorite cocktail (these Paper Planes really good), and nibbling on some appetizers on a much more regular basis. Especially if it means enjoying appetizers like these easy to make, incredibly delicious Puff Pastry Bites. 

They might just be the most perfect cocktail party, cocktail hour little bite to come out of your oven. There is something so satisfying about having a warm appetizer (or two) to savor with your favorite beverage. Especially when there is a chill in the air. Made in mini-muffin pan, these three bite wonders are likely to become your favorite go-to appetizer for impromptu or planned gatherings in the weeks and months ahead. 

Other than some frozen store bought puff pastry, a wedge of creamy Brie, a jar or jars of your favorite preserves or chutneys, an egg, and some flaky sea salt, all you need is a less than 24 hour plan ahead period. Why 24 hours? Well that's the amount of time it generally takes to thaw frozen puff pastry in the refrigerator. 

There are many, many versions of Puff Pastry Bites out there, but this is my version. I only like these bites mini-sized as it makes for a better puff pastry, to cheese, to preserve ratio. Honestly, I just don't think they are as good when made in a standard cupcake tin. 

Even when using a non-stick mini-muffin pan you still need to spray your pan. I use either an avocado oil (my favorite) or canola oil spray (both I usually buy from Trader Joe's). Frozen puff pastry sheets come in various sizes and come at different price points. Some say DuFour makes the best puff pastry (I happen to agree but it's also the most expensive). Save the DuFour for a 'fancier' dish and use something having a good quality, easily found at the grocery store, and very affordable. For me, that would be the one made by Pepperidge Farm. Using only single sheet of the two nine inch square ones in the Pepperidge Farm package, was enough to make 16 (2 1/4" x 2 1/4") pieces or rather I should say bites. You can prepare the Puff Pastry Bites up to 4 hours keeping them chilled in the refrigerator. However, wait to brush them with an egg wash and lightly sprinkling with flaky sea salt before baking them in a 400 degree (F) preheated oven for 22-26 minutes (or until golden).

I made some of these Puff Pastry Bites using Strawberry Preserves and some using Raspberry Preserves. Had I made my Thanksgiving Spiced Cranberry and Dried Cherry Chutney, I would have made some of them using that! Make them using your favorite homemade or storebought preserve(s), choosing ones that pair well with Brie Cheese. 

Topping each of the baked Puff Pastry Bites with small sprigs of fresh herbs is both a beautiful and flavorful finishing savory touch. See the notes below for preserve and herb pairing suggestions.

If you are looking to make your holiday entertaining season a little more stress free, put these Puff Pastry Bites high your list of appetizers! And, if you want some unwarranted advice from someone who is looking to bring more joy and experience less self-inflicted angst this holiday season, then I ever so kindly suggest you do a sprint out to the grocery store to stock up on frozen puff pastry, Brie, and jars of your favorite preserves. You won't regret this. That dash out to the store might cause some momentary breathlessness, but it will definitely make entertaining on a whim feel effortless and easy. Which is exactly how I hope that four mile Turkey Trot feels on Thanksgiving morning. 

Recipe

Puff Pastry Bites

16-32 bites

Ingredients

2 sheets of puff pastry, thawed according to package directions

8 ounces of Brie cheese, cut into 1/4"x1" pieces (rinds cut off)

Raspberry Preserves, Strawberry Preserves, Cranberry Chutney/Preserves or Fig Preserves

1 large egg, lightly beaten

Flaky sea salt

Fresh herbs (thyme, rosemary)

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees (F). Generously spray a non-stick mini-muffin pan with cooking spray (e.g., avocado oil, canola oil).

2. On a lightly floured surface, unfold one of the pieces of puff pastry. Using a rolling pin, roll out just to even out the surface. Cut into 16 pieces (2 1/4" x 2 1/4"). See notes.

3. Place each square into the well of the muffin pan. Use a fork to poke a hole in the bottom of each piece of puff pastry.

4. Place a piece of Brie into each puff pastry filled cup.

5. Top the Brie with a generous half-teaspoon of your preferred preserve(s).

6. Transfer the pan to the refrigerator and chill for about 30 minutes. Or you can make them at least 4 hours in advance (although wait to brush with the beaten egg until you are ready to bake).

7. Brush the edges of the puffed pastry with the lightly beaten egg. Lightly sprinkle with flaky sea salt.

8. Place muffin pan on a baking sheet and bake for 22-26 minutes or until puffed and golden.

9. Remove each puff pastry bite with an offset spatula and place on serving platter. Garnish with a sprig of fresh herbs (see notes) and a small amount of preserves (if more is needed). Note: I added a tiny bit to the bites before serving partly to differentiate between the raspberry and strawberry bites, but because I felt they looked even more appetizing.

10. Serve immediately. These are amazing when warm, but still good when they to room temperature.

Notes: (1) I used Pepperidge Farm's Puff Pastry. Each sheet is approximately nine inches in diameter. Other brands of puff pastry may come in slightly larger sheets. One sheet of the puff pastry will yield 16 bites, two sheets will yield 32 bites. (2) When pairing herbs, the following combinations work well: strawberry/thyme, raspberry/rosemary, cranberry/rosemary, fig/thyme, cherry/thyme. (3) I used THIS non-stick mini-muffin pan.

East coast hydrangeas, Fall 2021

Shells and Cheese (Fontina & Cheddar)

"There is nothing I would not do for those who are really my friends." Jane Austen When it comes to being loyal, it would be fair to say I extend my fierce faithfulness only to people. Or rather I should say some people. Even when that loyalty might be a bit misguided or unreciprocated. Yet, with very few exceptions, I am genuinely not particularly loyal to things. Specifically to recipes. I can already hear your gasps! But before you stop reading this post or worse yet, decide you will no longer be a loyal follower, give me a chance to explain. As is often the case when I learn something new or self-reflect, I sometimes shift my thinking. The best example of this might be with regard to what I now believe to be a really, really, really good chocolate chip cookie recipe (at the moment it's this one). Over the course of the last thirty something plus years my loyalty, so to speak, to chocolate chip cookie recipes has changed for a myriad of reasons. From the quality of ingredients, to ingredient ratios, to recipe techniques, I must admit my allegiance to a recipe on more than one occasion has been upended. It's not that I completely abandon them, it's that they just don't always make regular repeat appearances on my table. 

There are currently five recipes, five versions of macaroni and cheese on the blog. And to be honest, I still like all of them for different reasons. But, if anyone were to ask me what my favorite mac and cheese recipe is, I would have to say it's for THIS ONE for Shells and Cheese. One made with Fontina and Cheddar cheeses and topped with a crunchy gremolata. If I were making mac and cheese for friends/family or for Thanksgiving, without hesitation, THIS would be the one I would be making. And it's the one I am going to try to be loyal to for as long as possible. And who knows, it could very well be one of those exceptions to the loyalty rule dishes!

So what's so different about this one that has me all excited and swooning over? Maybe it's the combination of both Fontina and Cheddar cheeses. Because what is not to love about the medium-sharp, rich, soft, creamy Fontina to give that cheese pull when you spoon it out of the dish? Or maybe it's the gremolata made with Japanese panko, fresh parsley, grated garlic and lemon zest adding both texture and flavor that had my head spinning. Or maybe it's the slight heat created by the use of onion powder, garlic powder, and white pepper that had me say 'wow' each time I took a bite. I could probably go on a bit more on why this is the lollapalooza of mac and cheese dishes, but I will show some restraint.

Like many macaroni and cheese dishes this one begins with a roux. Like most other bechamel based cheese sauces, this one starts with butter and flour. Although instead of adding in a higher milk to cream or half-and-half ratio, this one is heavy on the half-and-half. 

Because there isn't any hard and fast rule on which is the best pasta to use when making a macaroni and cheese dish, you can choose to stay traditional and use elbow macaroni or be swayed and use the slightly more delicate shells. But whether you opt for either of these choices or choose another one, remember you want one that lends itself to being liberally coated with the creamy, cheesy sauce. Or maybe you want to make a 'mockeroni' version using lightly steamed cauliflower florets. 

When buying a block of Fontina cheese, buy one weighing slightly more than you need to take into account the weight of rind. When choosing your cheddar cheese, look for one that's sharp. But for this dish you don't need to buy the highest end, most aged sharp cheddar you can find. Find one you like, one you would gladly just eat or serve on a charcuterie platter.

After you make the rich, creamy, cheesy sauce, remove the pan from the stovetop and mix in the al dente cooked pasta Working quickly, pour the entire mixture into a generously buttered baking dish. Note: You can make the dish up to this point early in the day. Just cover and refrigerate, but take out of the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before baking.

While the Shells and Cheese are baking in a preheated 350 degree (F) oven, make the gremolata. I had considered topping the dish with some crispy bacon, but at the moment I am in love with the flavor and added texture this gremolata brings to the dish. I prefer using the large, plain Japanese style panko rather than the smaller versions of panko you might find at the grocery store as it gives a much better crunch to the gremolata.

The gremolata is sprinkled on top after the Shells and Cheese finish baking. The recipe makes enough to lightly sprinkle over the whole dish or generously sprinkled down the center. Everyone needs to get at least a spoonful of it.

I might have momentarily died and gone to heaven while eating this Shells and Cheese dish. 

If by chance the dish isn't completely devoured and you have any leftovers, this Shells and Cheese dish reheats beautifully in the microwave. Yet another reason why I might become a most loyal fan to a recipe.

I don't think I am going too far out on a limb when I say this might be THE showstopper side dish at your next gathering. Which is all the more reason why you need one more macaroni and cheese recipe in your life. 

Recipe

Shells and Cheese (Fontina & Cheddar)

Serves 8-10 as a side dish

Ingredients

1 Tablespoon and 1 3/4 teaspoon Kosher salt, divided

16 ounces (454g) pasta shells (see notes)

3 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

4 Tablespoons (67g) unsalted butter

1/3 cup (44g) all-purpose flour

3 3/4 cups half and half

1/2 cup whole milk

10 ounces (283g) Fontina cheese, grated and divided

8 ounces (227g) sharp cheddar cheese, grated and divided (see notes)

1 1/4 teaspoons onion powder

1 1/4 teaspoons garlic powder

1 1/4 teaspoons white pepper

1/8 teaspoon nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 cup Japanese style Panko

1/2 cup freshly chopped flat leaf parsley

Zest of one lemon

1 large garlic clove, grated

Directions

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees (F). Generously butter a broiler safe 9" x 11" baking dish. Set aside.

2. Bring a large pot of water to boil over medium-high heat. Add in 1 Tablespoon of Kosher salt and the package of shells. Cook to al dente according to the package directions, but taste to make certain. Drain and transfer to a large bowl. Stir in 1 Tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil to keep the pasta from sticking.

3. In a heavy bottomed saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook whisking constantly until the mixture is lightly browned (about 4 minutes).

4. Gradually add in the half-and-half and milk, stirring until the sauce is smooth. Bring the sauce to a simmer over medium-high heat (whisking regularly), then reduce the heat to low and continue cooking for 4-5 minutes or until the sauce has no floury taste (about 4 minutes).

5. Remove from the heat and gradually add in 6 ounces of the grated Fontina and 6 ounces of the grated sharp cheddar, whisking until smooth. Whisk in the onion powder, garlic powder, white pepper, and nutmeg.

6. Stir in the cooked shells. Season with 1 1/2 teaspoons Kosher salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. 

7. Transfer mixture to the prepared baking dish. Top with the remaining 4 ounces of grated Fontina and 2 ounces of grated cheddar. Place dish on a large baking sheet and bake for about 20 minutes (or until the edges begin bubbling).

8. While the dish is baking, heat the remaining 2 Tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add in panko and cook until golden (about 3-4 minutes). Transfer to a bowl and let rest for 2 minutes. Stir in the chopped parsley, grated lemon zest, and grated garlic. Season with 1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt.

8. Increase the oven temperature to broil and cook until browned in spots (about 2-3 minutes). Again, remember to use a baking dish that can withstand a broil temperature.

9. Remove from the oven and let set for at least 5 minutes.

10. Top the Shells and Cheese with Gremolata. 

11. Serve immediately.

Notes: (1) Recipe heavily influenced by the Baked Shells with Gremolata Breadcrumbs recipe found in Food and Wine's Thanksgiving Issue, November 2021. (2) I used the N 105 shells from Granoro. (3) I used the Trader Joe's Unexpected Cheddar, however, if you want a slightly creamier dish use a softer sharp cheddar. (4) The other mac and cheese recipes on the blog can be found here: Gouda Mac and Cheese with Caramelized Shallots, Mac and Cheese East Coast Style, Baked Macaroni and Cheese, Macaroni and Cheese, Version 2, and Stovetop Mac and Cheese with Caramelized Shallots.

Scenes from Cape Cod (October 2021)