Peach Cobbler

Upon returning back from a short trip to Michigan, I received a box of the most beautiful, ripest South Carolina peaches I had ever seen. Sorry Georgia, you may be the Peach state, but South Carolina may be the unofficial Peach Queen. This generous, thoughtful gift was sent from a very dear friend who mysteriously said a package would be arriving at my doorstep sometime the first week in July. I wasn't sure what this unexpected gift would be, but I wasn't expecting fruit. Except, this was just fruit and these were not just any peaches. These were peaches from McLeod Farms, a one hundred year old family owned farm in McBee, South Carolina. Because, of course, this friend wasn't going to send just any box of peaches. They would have to be ones coming from a place where fruits and vegetables have been grown by generations of South Carolinians. If one could become legally intoxicated from simply looking at the most perfect peaches, then moments after I opened the box I was definitely drunk in peach love.

"The cobbler is simple. It's homey, nothin' fancy. It cuts across socio-economic lines and is eaten in red and blue states alike. Its' history is one of immigrant innovative spirit. How's that for American?" (Washington Post, 2006). What is not to love about a simple, homemade dessert, one where all of its' fuss is not in its' fancy pastry but rather its' taste from seasonally ripe fruits? Pies may be pretty but the cobbler's true beauty lies in its' simplicity. And this Peach Cobbler, one made with the ripest, freshest peaches and a ginger-pecan cookie-like crust, not only exemplifies but further elevates the allure of the classic American cobbler. Without hesitation I knew the some of those South Carolina peaches were destined for a Peach Cobbler.

While many cobblers, especially the stone fruit ones, call for the use of several fruits, these peaches needed, or rather almost demanded to be, of course in the most gracious Southern way possible, the center of attention.

One of my favorite "Southern" magazines is Garden and Gun. Published (but where else?) in Charleston, South Carolina. While I am mostly drawn to the writing in this magazine, it has also been a source of culinary inspiration. So when searching out Peach Cobbler recipes, I decided Garden and Gun would serve as my muse. Because where else but the South could the best Peach Cobbler recipes come from?

Whenever a recipe calls for 'x number of cups of a stone fruit or x number of fruits', my need for specificity self cringes. Measuring blueberries isn't the same as measuring peeled and sliced peaches. After triangulating several pound to cup conversion sources for peaches, there seemed to be some consensus that a pound of peaches was equivalent to 2 cups of peaches. And generally 2 to 3 medium sized peaches will weigh close to a pound. For this Peach Cobbler, I went with 3 pounds of peaches, as I wanted the ratio between peach filling and topping to be balanced.

If you have peeled a very ripe peach, you probably discovered it is easier done with a sharp knife than with a vegetable peeler. I was reminded of this lesson after massacring the first one!

Instead of cutting the peaches into chunks, I cut them into slices. They were just too pretty not to be cut any other way.

The recommended amounts of sugar to be used in a fruit cobbler, particularly a Peach Cobbler, was essentially all over the map. This particular cobbler used only a half cup of sugar and three tablespoons of honey to compliment the sweetness of the peaches. While some recipes don't advocate for the use of a thickener when making a cobbler, a peach cobbler may qualify as one of the exceptions. Because peaches don't have as much pectin as, let's say apples, it needs a little something to help with setting up the filling. There are a variety of thickening options (flour, cornstarch, tapioca) but I used my favorite, Maizena Corn Starch, as it seems to consistently create the smoothest, silkiest fillings and sauces. Cinnamon and nutmeg are two of the most common spices used in a Peach Cobbler. But there was going to be nothing common about this Peach Cobbler, so it used a combination of cinnamon, ground ginger, and allspice. Although the recipe in Garden and Gun called for equal amounts of each of them, I wanted the allspice to have a more subtle presence in this cobbler, so I significantly decreased it. Lemon zest, lemon juice, kosher salt, vanilla and a tablespoon of unsalted butter rounded out the list of ingredients.

Recently I had made a Blueberry Cobbler using an eggless ginger pecan cookie-like crust from another modified recipe out of Garden and Gun. In keeping with creating a 'Southern' inspired Peach Cobbler, I thought it would be the perfect topping (spoiler alert: it was). Giving this crust added dimensions of flavor are the roasted pecans and chopped crystallized ginger. Note: I like buying the Crystallized Ginger from Trader Joe's for its' freshness, flavor, and cost.

The recipe for the crust makes more than enough for a Peach Cobbler made in a 9"x12" baking dish. I used all but about 2/3 cup of it (I won't tell you what I did with it in light of recent opinions on eating raw cooking dough). Rather than drop pieces of the dough on top of the peach filling, I took pieces and slightly flattened them first before arranging them on top.

In a preheated 350 degree (F) oven, the Peach Cobbler bakes anywhere from 55 to 65 minutes. Or until the top is golden brown and the filling bubbles up along the sides and/or through the topping. The aroma of this Peach Cobbler was just as intoxicating as look of the fresh peaches themselves. Note: Before placing the baking pan in the oven, place on a large baking sheet to catch any of the peach filling drippings.

As much as I hate to tell anyone to wait for something, for anything they crave, I must tell you to wait at least 30 minutes before you serve this cobbler. If you serve it any sooner, it will be much too hot to savor and enjoy. And if you are serving it ala mode, well your ice cream will be completely melted before the third or fourth bite. Serve warm (or even room temperature) with the best vanilla ice cream and, well, everyone will become deliriously happy.

The only downside to receiving the box of fresh peaches was that I could not share this incredibly soul-satisfying, intoxicating, Peach Cobbler with my generous on so many levels friend. If there was ever a case to made for everyone in the country owning their own drone, ones able to safely and swiftly fly across the country, you would have to look no further than this Peach Cobbler. The peach filling was perfectly sweet, spiced, and thick and the topping was perfectly crunchy, nutty, gingery, and just the right amount of sweet. And oh, those slices of the peaches in the filling! This cobbler almost did not need the vanilla ice cream, but then again why have a bowl of comfort food if it can't also be decadent. I think I may have just discovered a new guilty pleasure.

Recipe

Peach Cobbler (several adaptations to Garden and Gun's Peach Cobbler and Blackberry and Peach Cobbler recipes)

Ingredients
Filling
3 pounds (or 6 cups) fresh ripe peaches, peeled and sliced
1/2 cup granulated sugar
3 Tablespoons honey
3 Tablespoons cornstarch
Zest and juice of 1 large lemon
1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 1/2 teaspoons ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 Tablespoon unsalted butter (plus more for preparing the pan)

Topping and Assembly
3/4 cup (3 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
3/4 cup granulated sugar
3/4 light brown sugar, firmly packed
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
3 cups all-purpose flour
1/3 cup crystallized ginger, finely chopped
1 cup pecan halves, toasted and coarsely chopped
Vanilla Ice Cream (Ben and Jerry's is my current favorite)

Directions
Filling
1. In a large bowl, combine the peach slices, sugar honey, cornstarch, lemon zest, lemon juice, cinnamon, ginger, allspice, kosher salt, and vanilla. Pour into a lightly buttered 9"x12" baking dish. 
2. Top with one tablespoon of butter cut into small pieces.
3. Set aside while you prepare the topping.

Topping and Assembly
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F).
2. In a large mixing bowl, cream butter until smooth (approximately 2 minutes) using a hand mixer.
3. Add granulated sugar and brown sugar to butter and beat at medium-high speed until fluffy (approximately 3-4 minutes).
4. Add dry ingredients in two batches. Mix until well incorporated. Note: Dough will be thick.
5. Mix in chopped ginger and pecans.
6. Remove large tablespoons of dough, flatten with your hands slightly, and place on top of peach mixture. Completely cover the peaches. Note: You will have about 2/3 cup of dough left over, however, if using a larger rectangular pan, you may have less than that remaining.
7. Place peach cobbler pan on a large rimmed baking sheet before putting in the oven to catch any peach filling drippings.
8. Bake for 55-65 minutes or the top is a golden brown and the filling is bubbly around the edges.
9. Allow to rest for 30 minutes before serving. Serve with your most favorite vanilla ice cream.

Notes: Use the ripest peaches you can find.The Peach Cobbler is equally delicious warm or at room temperature. Store any leftovers covered in the refrigerator. Reheat individual serving portions in the microwave before serving. 

Pentwater, Michigan's shades of blue.

Slow Roasted Pulled Pork

This year the Fourth of July began with an early morning four mile race in my hometown and ended basking in the sun along the shore of Lake Michigan in Pentwater, Michigan. In between I baked a Blueberry Crumble, shredded the almost 16 hour roasted pork, finished packing, and made the little more than four hour drive to the cottage. The day could not have been more exhilarating or exhausting. But I don't think I would have changed anything about it. Okay, well maybe I wouldn't have packed enough clothes for a three week trip instead of the short three day one. Maybe.

On the years I join my sister and her family up at the lake I am usually given a good intentioned condition. This year it was that I could only bring 'one' food thing. Little did my younger sister know what her ever so clever older sister's interpretation of 'one' was going to be. If 'one' can represent a single entity, than In my 'if there is a will there is away' world a meal would most certainly meet the definition of 'one'. But I had to make certain if I was going to stretch the concept of 'one', this meal would have to include all of the things she would find hard to resist. At the same time it would need to be relatively simple. Blueberry Crumble, Lemony Potato Salad, and Slow Roasted Pulled Pork would not only be the perfect 4th of July dinner, it would also make it harder for her to argue I didn't listen. But here's the thing, both the Blueberry Crumble and Slow Roasted Pulled Pork were going to be first-time made recipes. So in the event they didn't turn out (spoiler alert: they did), well then the Lemony Potato Salad would have been my 'one' food thing. 

In the days leading up to my trip up to Pentwater, I spent time searching out Pulled Pork recipes. They ranged the gamut from pork butts/shoulders made in a slow cooker with and without a spice rub to ones made either on a grill or in the oven for varying lengths of time at varying temperatures to ones made in a smoker. Considering I didn't have a smoker, I had to immediately rule that option out. As tempted as I was to make this a less time consuming dish, I considered making it in the slow cooker. Without intending to ruffle anyone's feathers, I ruled that method out. A slow cooker heats only from the bottom, resulting in a pork roast cooked primarily through a simmering and steaming process. In other words, there wouldn't be any of that delicious crispy, crunchy bark. So now I was left with the option of slow roasting in the oven. There were still a myriad of decisions to be made. What the rub would be, at what temperature to roast it at, and whether or not to add any liquids (sauce or liquid smoke) to the roasting pan were just some of them.

There seemed to be as many dry rub options for a slow roasted pulled pork as there were methods to make pulled pork. Ultimately I choose one made with ground cumin, garlic powder, onion powder, aleppo pepper, chipotle chili powder, kosher salt, black pepper, smoked sweet paprika, and light brown sugar.

Slow roasted pulled pork can be made with either a pork butt  or a pork shoulder.  Roasts labeled 'pork butt' or 'Boston butt' are the same cuts of meat. Both are from the top portion of what is considered the whole shoulder, very marbled, having a large portion of fat on top and sold either boneless or bone-in. Conversely, the pork shoulder (sometimes called pork picnic) is from the lower portion of the shoulder, contains more fat, and is almost always sold bone-in. Both are good for making pulled pork and generally equally economical. For this recipe I used an almost 8 pound bone-in pork butt.

I opted not to use any liquid in the making of this Slow Roasted Pulled Pork on this first attempt. After rubbing the pork butt with the dry rub I let it sit at room temperature for an hour before putting it fat side up in a preheated 225 degree (F) oven. At this low temperature, roasting time will take anywhere from 1.5 to 2 hours per pound in order for the internal temperature of the roast to reach 190-195 degrees. Although the pork will be cooked through at 160 degrees (F), it isn't until it gets to the higher temperature will it be able to pulled apart into those highly prized meaty shreds. If there was ever a reason to overcook a pork butt/shoulder, being able to savor a moist, tender, flavorful slow roasted pulled pork sandwich is one of them.

My roasting time skewed more to the 2 hours per hour. If you choose to roast your pork at this lower temperature (see note below) and serving the pulled pork the same day, I would recommend putting the roast in the oven before you go to bed rather than putting it in early in the morning. 

After almost 15 hours of roasting time, the meat finally reached an internal temperature of 190 degrees. Immediately I turned off the oven and allow the roast to rest in the oven for almost 2 hours. After removing from the oven I waiting another 15 minutes before shredding it using two forks. Note: Remove layer of fat before shredding the pork roast. 

This is the part of the recipe where I will tread lightly and leave you to decide what kind of sauce (if any) you want to use. Depending on which region of the country you live in, you may have a barbecue sauce preference. Whether you choose a bottled or homemade one, I would recommend you serve it on the side as it meant to add rather than overshadow the flavor of the pork you lovingly roasted for hours. 

As it turned out, the 'one' food (aka 'one' meal) was a big hit with my family making me wonder if my sister forgave me for my liberal interpretation of the 'one' condition. The pulled pork was pure perfection. I would definitely make this Slow Roasted Pulled Pork again and again, although next time I might increase the oven temperature to 250 or 275 degrees (F). And more than likely will start swapping out my Blueberry Crisp with the two desserts in one Blueberry Crumble (will post to the blog in the weeks ahead). Is there anything better than a memorable holiday and meal? Maybe.

Recipe
Slow Roasted Pulled Pork (based on a blend of multiple pulled pork recipes)

Ingredients
7-8 pound pork butt or pork shoulder
1 Tablespoon ground cumin
1 Tablespoon garlic powder
1 Tablespoon onion flakes (ground) or onion powder
1 Tablespoon Chipotle chili powder
1 Tablespoon Aleppo or cayenne pepper
1 Tablespoon kosher salt
1 Tablespoon ground black pepper
1 Tablespoon smoked sweet paprika
1/2 cup light brown sugar
Barbecue sauce, on the side
Buns or white bread

Directions
1. Make the dry rub by mixing together the ground cumin, garlic powder, onion flakes/powder, chipotle chili powder, aleppo pepper, kosher salt, black pepper, smoked sweet paprika and brown sugar.
2. Place pork butt or pork shoulder in a large, deep, heavy bottomed roasting pan.
3. Sprinkle dry rub over the pork and massage in so that in adheres to all sides of the meat's surface. When finished, make sure fat layer on the butt/shoulder is facing up.
4. Allow pork to rest at room temperature at least one hour before putting in a preheated 225 degree (F) oven.
5. Place roasting pan on middle rack in the oven. Roast until a meat thermometer inserted into the center reaches 190-195 degrees. Note: Roasting time is approximately 1 1/2-2 hours per pound. For an 8 pound pork butt/shoulder, roasting time will be approximately 12-16 hours.
6. When pork has reached the desired temperature, turn off oven and allow the pork to roast cool for two (2) hours or until internal temperature has reduced to 170 degrees before removing from the oven. Note: If the bottom of the pan is crusted with the dry spices, cover the pan with foil to retain the internal moisture of the meat during the cooling period.
7. Remove from oven and transfer to a large cutting board. Allow to sit at least 15-30 minutes before shredding. Remove the large sheet of crusted fat on top. Pull apart with two forks.
8. Serve with your favorite barbecue sauce.
Notes: Due to the long slow roasting time, would recommend putting in the oven before you go to bed. So long as you don't sleep for more than 12 hours (or however long your baking time will be based on pork butt/shoulder size), it will ready for you in the morning. The pulled pork can be reheated in a 350 degree oven until warm when ready to serve. This pulled pork is so flavorful it almost doesn't need any barbecue sauce, however, serve on the side so everyone can put as much or as little on as they like.

Notes: (1) Slow Roasting temperature recommendations ranged from 225 degrees (F) to 275 degrees (F). If a higher temperature is used, adjust roasting time (i.e., about 1 to 1.5 hours per pound at 275 degrees) and (2) Allow for 6-8 ounces of cooked pulled per person when serving on sandwiches.

 The stillness of Lake Michigan and Bass Lake in Pentwater, Michigan in early July.

4th of July Round-Up

Fourth of July usually means barbecues, picnics, fireworks, and parades all draped in an abundance of red, white, and blue. This year's patriotic holiday will be marked by the observation of both new and old traditions. After running the Four on the Fourth race for the first time, I will take the long drive along the eastern shore of Lake Michigan to Pentwater, Michigan to spend a couple of days with my sister and her family. The weekend weather forecast looks to be as close to perfect as possible as there will be a much needed reprieve from this oppressive humidity.

To go along with the grilled hamburgers, hot dogs, chicken, and steaks or the platters of slow roasted brisket and barbecued pulled pork, here are some suggestions for appetizers, side dishes, and desserts to round out your holiday gatherings and celebrations. All of the recipes are linked to the blog, so you don't have to spend any time searching through the recipe index, unless of course you want to. They include a combination of make-ahead and make-serve dishes. With the exception of the Blueberry and Rye Slab Pie, none are what you might consider time consuming or ingredient complex. And most feature seasonal ingredients.

I hope you all have fabulous holiday weekend! Stay safe, have fun, spend more time outdoors than in the kitchen, eat well, honor old and create new traditions, and take time to remember all of those who have and continue to make this country great.

Appetizers
Cheddar Cheese Jalapeño Beer Bread - definitely a crowd pleaser!

Deviled Eggs - one of the signature appetizers making regular appearances at barbecues.

Guacamole - chunky and not too spicy. Serve with your favorite corn or tortilla chips.

Texas Caviar - this classic dip from the Lone Star state, served with tortilla chips, only requires you have enough cold beer on hand and a pitcher of margaritas ready.

Sides
Four Bean Baked Beans - easy, delicious, and bound to be a summer barbecue favorite.

Calico Coleslaw - a slight twist to the traditional coleslaw. This one is made with cabbage, a can of Mexicorn, cubes of American cheese, green onions, and olives (optional).

Lemony Potato Salad - a refreshing change to the traditional American style potato salad.

Summer Salad with Creamy Dill Dressing - a platter of some of your favorite vegetables served with an incredibly delicious dill dressing.

Desserts
Blueberry and Rye Slab Pie - this hard to resist showstopper is served with vanilla ice cream of course.

Blueberry Crisp - underneath the crispy top is a blueberry filling having just the right amount of lemon and cinnamon flavor. Serve warm with vanilla ice cream.

Fruity Pebbles Treats - even better than a Rice Krispies treat. After cutting into squares wrap in cellphone bags and tie with a ribbon.

Strawberry Ice Cream - is one you don't even need an ice cream maker for!

Lasagna Bolognese

Let me begin with a kinda, sorta forewarning about one of the most blissfully delicious, soul satisfying, decadent lasagnas on the planet, one you will fall hopelessly, deeply in love with in the first bite. This Lasagna Bolognese is an ambitious labor of love. Suffice to say this is a dish you should make only for the family and friends in your life that you really, really, really, really like. More specifically, for those in your life who, while sitting at your dinner table, unabashedly express their euphoria moments after their taste buds go into overdrive. Definitely do not make this dish for the kind, for whatever reason or reasons, have the uncanny ability to refrain from sharing or showing the joy their taste buds are experiencing, begin critiquing the dish ('did you put too much garlic in?') or who get all effusive about a lasagna they had elsewhere. Because if there was ever a Lasagna Bolognese to share with your most favorite people in the universe, one where you (or they) wouldn't care if the world or life as you know it ended tomorrow, this would be the one. 

I know what you may be thinking "we all don't experience the tastes of things the same way so maybe not everyone will be doing backflips and handstands at the table". To a certain extent I might concede to the possibility there is some truth to that belief. Except for the well documented fact there are some foods and dishes so incredible in taste and texture they transcend all of our individual unique food experiences and preferences. Generically speaking, pizza, ice cream and bread, are amongst the foods with the most universal appeal. While lasagna may be one of those dishes where our love or ambivalence for them is due in large part to the kinds of lasagna we grew up eating, this Lasagna Bolognese is a game-changer. For those brave enough to willing admit their Lasagna rating bar was set against frozen lasagna dinners or ones made with commercially sold jarred sauces, they won't be able to keep their heads from spinning after tasting this Lasagna Bolognese. 

This Lasagna Bolognese is made with a veal and pork ragu simmered to perfection, a white bechamel sauce ever so lightly seasoned with salt and a hint of grated nutmeg, freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, and sheets of fresh lasagna noodles (no you don't have to make your own pasta if you don't want to as you can find some really high quality fresh pasta in the refrigerated section of many grocery stores). To make the process of making this Lasagna Bolognese seem less labor intensive you can make the Bolognese Ragu a day ahead (cover and chill in the refrigerator). Rather than trying to the 'hostess with mostest" after an exhaustive day of cooking, make and assemble the entire Lasagna Bolognese the day before (cover and chill in the refrigerator). Not only will enjoy your dinner gathering as much as everyone else, you also give the flavors of the ragu some time to further develop. In other words, if you pace yourself the feelings of love will overshadow the labor.

Finely diced carrots, celery and onion (along with thinly sliced garlic) starts out as an Italian Buttato and transforms into a Soffritto when sautéed in extra-virgin olive oil. This cousin to France's mirepoix become the flavor base for the ragu. Key to the soffrito is three-fold: finely diced uniform pieces of vegetables; using a large heavy bottomed pan; and, sautéeing just until they have softened and translucent but not browned.

The second layer of richness comes from the ground pork, ground veal, and pancetta. Before adding the meats to the pan, temporarily transfer the Soffritto to a bowl, to enable them to brown.

After the meats are browned and the Soffritto returned to the pan, add the tomato paste, milk, wine, and thyme bundle are stirred in and brought just to a boil, the heat is reduced to a simmer. The ragu should be allowed to simmer for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, however, the longer you simmer the deeper its' flavor. If your mixture seems to become 'too' thick, add in a little water (I added about a cup of water after about an hour). Season with salt and pepper, remove the thyme bundle, and allow to cool before assembling the lasagna.

The more classic Northern Italian lasagnas are made with a bechamel (besciamella in Italian) sauce, versus ricotta cheese found in other versions of the recipe. Considered to be one of the simplest of the Italian sauces and one of the five 'mother' sauces in French cooking, the bechamel sauce adds flavor and creaminess to this Lasagna Bolognese along with helping to keep the pasta from drying out. The key to making this sauce is making sure the butter/flour roux is a light golden brown before slowly adding in the milk. Patience is key here. In about 15-20 minutes you will have created a smooth, creamy, thickened (but spreadable) bechamel sauce.

Call me a cheese snob (I have been called worse), but nothing compares to the nutty, complex flavor of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Nothing. So don't even think of using any else.

Now here's the point in the recipe where I made a substitution. I (gasp) used 'fresh' but not 'homemade' pasta sheets. While the 'fresh' pasta found in the refrigerated section (not to be confused with those in the box 'no boil' pasta sheets), they are next best thing to homemade pasta. You can certainly make your pasta for this Lasagna Bolognese, but you can't those slippery curly edged lasagna noodles cooked in boiling water. Really you can't. 

To assemble this epic pasta dish, begin with a layer of the ragu, a sprinkling of the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, a layer of pasta, a layer of bechemal, a layer of ragu, a sprinkling of the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese....until all of the sauce and pasta are used up but ensuring the top layer is the pasta with the bechamel sauce over it. Before putting the Lasagna Bolognese in a preheated 375 degree (F) oven, generously finish with more grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Note: In a 9"x12" pan you will have 4 to 5 layers of pasta if using the fresh, refrigerated pasta sheets, but more layers if you use your own homemade pasta.  The Lasagna is baked for 30 to 45 minutes (longer if you had made it the night before) until the edges are browned and is cooked through. Allow it to set at least 15-20 minutes before cutting and serving. Then brace yourself for the most delicious meal of your life.

So how much do I love this Lasagna Bolognese? Almost as much as I love chocolate; puppies; the sound of a giggling baby; the deep rich colors of a beautiful sunset; the sound of the ocean; a bouquet of deep blue hydrangeas; the feel and smell of clean, hung out to dry in the fresh air sheets; a long, windows open drive out in the country; two-armed hugs; bringing a smile to the face of everyone sitting at my dining room table (handstands or backflips optional).......Your search for the most perfect, best, most mouthwatering lasagna is over. Buon appetito!

Recipe
Lasagna Bolognese (several adaptations to Mario Batali's Lasagna Bolognese recipe shared on The Food Network and in his cookbook Molto Italiano: 327 Simple Italian Recipes to Cook at Home)

NOTE: Recipe updated March 20, 2018

Ingredients
Bologonese Ragu (make about 6 cups)
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, finely chopped
4 ribs of celery, finely chopped
2 medium carrots, finely chopped
5-6 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced
1 to 1 1/4 pounds ground veal
1 to 1 1/4 pounds ground pork
4 ounces pancetta (either run through a meat grinder or finely diced)
9 ounces tomato paste
1 1/4 cups whole milk
1 1/4 cups dry white wine
1 bundle of fresh thyme leaves (about 4-5 stems)
2 teaspoons kosher salt (or more to taste)
1 teaspoon black pepper
Water, if needed, during the cooking process

Bechamel Sauce
5 Tablespoons unsalted butter
4 Tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 cups whole milk
2 teaspoons Kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Lasagna Assembly
2 (12-14 ounce) packages of fresh lasagna noodles (Note: Briefly (45-60 seconds) cook each of the pasta sheets in hot simmering water)
8-10 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated

Directions
Bologonese Ragu
1. In the bottom of a large heavy bottomed pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat until hot. Add the onions, celery, carrots, and garlic and cook until the vegetables are translucent but not browned (about 5-7 minutes). Transfer to a bowl and set aside to cool slightly. Note: I often like to process these sauteed vegetables in a food processor for about a minute, ensuring the mixture does not turn to paste.
2. Increase the heat to high and the pancetta. Cook the pancetta until beginning to turn brown (approximately 4-5 minutes). Then add the pork and veal to the pan (stirring frequently). Cook until the meats have browned.
3. Add the tomato paste to the pan. Cook for approximately 4-5 minutes or until the tomato paste takes on a deeper red color. Return vegetables along with the milk, wine, and thyme bundle. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Bring just a boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer for 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Note: You may need to add some water midway through to keep the sauce's consistency.
4. Taste for seasoning. Add additional salt and pepper if needed. Remove from heat and allow to cool before assembling the lasagna.

Bechamel Sauce
1. Melt the butter in a heavy bottomed, medium sized saucepan over medium heat.
2. Add the flour into the butter and whisk into the butter until smooth. Continue to cook the mixture (whisking constantly) until the butter/flour roux turns a light golden brown (about 5-6 minutes).
3. Begin by adding about 1/4 cup of the milk whisking constantly into the butter/flour roux is again smooth. Then add the remaining milk in three to four (or even five) equal portions, whisking until the sauce begins to thicken after each addition. 
4. Add the grated nutmeg, salt and pepper and allow the bechamel sauce to simmer (on low heat) for about 8-10 minutes. Taste and adjust for season. 
5. Allow to cool slightly before assembling the lasagna.
Note: If you add the milk too quickly your bechamel may not properly thicken.

Lasagna Assembly
1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees (F).
2. In a deep dish 9"x12" or 9"x13" baking pan, begin with a layer of the ragu, a sprinkling of the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, a layer of pasta, a layer of bechamel, a layer of ragu, a sprinkling of the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese....until all of the sauce and pasta are used up but ensuring the top layer is finished with bechamel sauce.
3. Finish with a generous sprinkling of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.
4. Bake 30-45 minutes or until the edges have browned and the lasagna is cooked through. Note: Cooking time will be longer if the lasagna was prepared and refrigerated the day before cooking.
5. Allow to rest 15-20 minutes before serving.

Notes: (1) Assembling the entire dish the day before serving is a life-saver. Individual servings reheat beautifully in the oven or microwave for several days after it has been baked (if it lasts that long). (2) The lasagna can also be frozen. Allow to cool slightly before wrapping and placing in the refrigerator. When slightly chilled place in the freezer (wrapped well). Remove the lasagna from the freezer and allow to thaw before baking in the oven. (3) Recently I started to make more of the bolognese, increasing the recipe by half, so there is extra sauce to serve when plating the lasagna.

Two early morning summer views of Lake Marmo at Morton Arboretum in Lisle, Illinois

Cowboy Cookies Revisited

Growing up in the pre-zillion number of television channels and growing number of media broadcasting options era, I used to love watching westerns and western genre television shows. Of course, this would have been back in the black and white versus technicolor days aka the dark ages. From Big Valley to Bonanza to The Virginian to Rawhide, along with a smattering of others (and oh let's not forget Little House on the Prairie), I was completely mesmerized by the good versus evil western frontier stories. Today, my affinity for westerns is no longer satisfied watching only reruns from the 50s, 60s and 70s. In recent years, shows like Deadwood and Hell on Wheels, where the lines between good and evil have been blurred, have become some of my favorite guilty television watching pleasures. And whenever a new 'western' or period movie opens, I wouldn't exactly say I am the first in line to see it, but am definitely in the audience in the opening weekend. No longer are the story and characters the only focus of my attention. Now I am equally attentive to the cinematography, period clothing, and especially the set decoration. Although I am not big on watching the same movie again and again, films like "The Hateful Eight" and "The Revenant" are amongst the exceptions. In revisiting both old and new television shows and movies, my takeaways from them continue to evolve. Affirming my belief that 'old' eyes can continue to see and experience things differently. As Marcel Proust once wrote "The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes".

Recently I came across another recipe for Cowboy Cookies, one made with toasted pecans, oatmeal, chocolate, cinnamon, and, yes, even coconut. It made me wonder if they would be as good as, or even better than, the Cowboy Cookies posted to the blog almost three years ago. Which, based on the relative short life of this blog, is a lifetime ago. I could speculate, even make an educated guess about them, based on what I think I know about cookies and cookie batter. Or I could make them. There was only one way to know for certain.

Unfortunately this incredibly delicious Cowboy Cookie doesn't have a rich, verifiable history to go along with it. How it got its' name is anyone's guess although two theories have been floating out there. Because of course everything we read on the internet is true (ha!). So keep these disclaimers in mind. The first theory was based on the belief the cookies were hardy enough to survive the journey out west. While the second one attributes their creation by some inventive Texas cowboys. Both sound plausible. If you happen to be from Texas, you might be tempted to be believe the later. This adapted version of the cookie can actually be attributed to a recipe Laura Bush shared during the Bush-Gore presidential campaign way back in 2000. Men ran for the presidency, their wives competed with cookie recipes. For the record, Laura Bush's cookie reigned over Tipper Gore's gingersnap recipe.

With most every cookie recipe I come across, something compels me to make a few minor adjustments. I didn't need more than four dozen cookies to make a decision as to whether I would like or even love them, so I made some changes to the ingredient amounts. In keeping with my belief (or to be honest, the rule) nuts should always be roasted/toasted before they are added to a dough, I made that little tweak. In the past year, I made the shift from chocolate chips to chopped chocolate when making cookies. From a visual and taste standpoint, this simple shift makes a significant difference. At the moment the Dark Belgium Chocolate Bars sold at Trader Joe's are my favorite.

These cookies come together in the same way a chocolate chip cookie does. Butter is creamed before the sugars are added, followed by the eggs and vanilla, then the dry ingredients, and finishing with all of the 'good stuff'. A standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment makes your cookie making life easier, but certainly a hand mixer would work. The dry ingredients do not need to be sifted. Whisking them together in a large bowl (with a balloon whisk if you have one, not to fret if you don't) is good enough.

Two of the best reasons to chill a cookie dough before baking them is your cookies are less likely to spread as the fat in the dough takes longer to melt and the sugar in the dough gradually absorbs the liquid. As a result your finished cookies will be both 'thicker' and 'moister'. Or have a more 'bakery' finish look to them. The dough can be chilled for as little as 30 minutes, but I prefer chilling them overnight. An ice cream scoop makes the cookie assembly and baking process easier as well the size and shape of the cookies more uniform. So rather than chill the bowl of cookie dough, I chill a tightly wrapped tray of the formed balls of dough.

The dough balls remained chilled in the refrigerator while each batch of cookies are baked. This way they all enter the oven the same way.

On a parchment paper lined baking sheet, the Cowboy Cookies are baked in a preheated 350 degree (F) oven for 14-15 minutes. When done, they will be beautiful brown color on the top and bottom but may look a little 'unfinished' in the center. Leaving the cookies on the hot sheet pan for 2-3 minutes after you remove them from oven helps to 'finish' the cookie. Transferring them to a cooling rack helps them come to room temperature. If you are not eating them right away (but of course you have to eat at least warm cookie), they store well in a covered container or sealed cellophane bag. You could even freeze them. A good idea especially if you want to use them to make ice cream sandwiches!

So what was the verdict? Were the Cowboy Cookies Revisited as good as or better than the other Cowboy Cookie recipe? I would definitely tip my hat to this "Revisited" version as I loved the flavor and texture combination of the toasted pecans, oatmeal, chopped dark chocolate, coconut, and cinnamon. Even if your friends and family are not big fans of coconut, they might end up being fans of this crispy on the outside chewy on the inside Cowboy Cookie as the coconut doesn't overpower but rather balances the cookie's sweetness. Seriously this is one great cookie. So great, in fact, it is almost impossible to eat just one in a single sitting. This isn't just conjecture or an opinion on my part. It is a proven theory.

Sometimes you need to revisit something in order to fully appreciate it. If you haven't ever had a Cowboy Cookie or had made ones different than the recipe posted here, I would strongly encourage you to give these a try. Think of them as a heartier, more satisfying version of a chocolate chip cookie. However, if I channeled my inner Victoria Barkley I would definitely not 'beat around the bush suggesting' you make them.

Recipe
Cowboy Cookies Revisited (adapted version of Laura Bush's Cowboy Cookie recipe shared in the New York Times)
Makes approximately 4 dozen cookies

Ingredients
2 cups (260g) all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons baking soda
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup (200g) granulated sugar
1 cup (200g) light brown sugar, firmly packed
2 large eggs, room temperature
2 teaspoon vanilla
11 ounces dark chocolate chopped (or 2 cups semisweet chocolate chips)
2 cups old-fashioned rolled oats
1 1/3 cups sweetened flaky coconut (e.g., Baker's Sweetened Coconut Flakes)
1 1/3 cups pecans, roasted and chopped (To roast the pecans, bake for 8-9 minutes in a preheated 350 degree oven. Allow to cool before adding to the batter.)

Directions
1. In a medium sized bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, kosher salt and cinnamon. Set aside.
2. In a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream the butter until light and fluffy (approximately 2-3 minutes).
3. Add granulated and brown sugar and beat to combine thoroughly.
4. Beat in eggs one at a time. Then beat in vanilla.
5. On low speed mix in the dry ingredients until fully blended.
6. Using a spatula or wooden spoon stir in the chopped chocolate, chopped pecans, coconut and oatmeal.
7. Using a large ice cream scoop, form balls of dough and set on a baking tray. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
8. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F). Line baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside.
9. Bake cookies for 14-15 minutes until edges are lightly browned. Rotate baking sheets halfway through the baking process.
10. Remove cookies from oven and allow to sit on cookie sheet for 2-3 minutes before transferring them to a cooling rack. 
11. Cook to room temperature and store in a covered container.

Notes: I think chopped milk chocolate would also work well in these cookies. And lucky for all of us, Trader Joe's sells a large bar of Belgium Milk Chocolate, perfect for chopping and using in cookies. If you like your cookies on the crispy side, store them in the refrigerator.

White Rhododendron blooms and blossoms.