Monday, October 2, 2017

Chocolate Cake with Ganache Icing


Months ago I had read Yotam Ottolenghi and Helen Goh were collaboratively working on a new cookbook. One completely devoted to those confections directly appealing to our sweet tooth. Aptly named "Sweet", I learned this destined to be classic cookbook would be released first in Europe (ultimately in September) and in the states (subsequently in October). Now if I lived somewhere in Europe I would have been thrilled to learn I would be amongst one of the 'firsts' to get my hands on this cookbook. But I live here in the states so my reaction was a bit different. Instead of experiencing some 'thrill', I shamelessly will admit I was a bit, well more than just a bit, envious of those living across the ocean, love to bake fellow foodies. As someone who has been known to put the word 'wait' into the same four letter word category we were once told were bad words, I began to wonder if there was a way I wouldn't have to. Wait, that is. I had once boldly called a book publisher asking for an early release of a book, but I had a really good reason for making a request they kindly granted. But calling the book publisher for an early US release of this cookbook would have been for selfish rather than selfless reasons. 

And then I wondered if I should ask one of my friends, who just happened to be going back to visit her family in County Mayo, if she might have any time to stop in a bookstore to pick up this book up for me. And then lug it back without incurring an over the weight limit luggage expense. Because with my luck, it would end up being one of the 'for no good reason' most expensive cookbooks I had ever purchased. If you have already guessed I asked for this favor, you would be right. However, little did I know at the time this favor would end up involving her sister making numerous trips to the bookstore. Not only to check on the cookbook's arrival date but in having it shipped to me. My obsession with getting a copy of "Sweet" before most everyone here in the states got theirs resulted in me being indebted to not just one, but two people. I don't yet know how I shall repay them, although I am fairly certain I will think of a worthy repayment for their kindness. Not just for gifting the cookbook to me, but for giving me the priceless 'thrill' experience. 


There will many cookbook reviewers, food bloggers, and bakers around the world weighing in and sharing their opinion on "Sweet". Other than telling everyone who loves to bake they should seriously consider buying this cookbook, I will let others do the reviewing. I would much rather tell you about this Chocolate Cake with Ganache Icing. One I finished with a bit of sea salt.


This isn't the first chocolate cake recipe I have shared on the blog. And maybe it won't be my last. But this one isn't anything like any of the others I have swooned over. If I told you it tasted more like a cake you would find in almost any bakery in Europe rather than some here in the states, that might not be enough to entice you to make it. Or even adequately describe it. If I told you it was a dense, chocolatey, perfect crumbed cake topped with a rich ganache lightly sea salted icing any chocolate cake lover would be over the moon, thrilled to eat, you might swayed to make it as some of those descriptors might resonate with you. But if I told you this swoon worthy, chocolate lover's dream cake was relatively easy to make, I wouldn't be surprised if it immediately went to the top of your 'must bake' list.


The bittersweet (70% cocoa) and Dutch processed cocoa along with the espresso granules (dissolved in boiling water) used in the cake batter are what gives this cake its' deep, rich chocolate flavor. Instead of baking powder or baking soda, this cake recipe uses self-rising flour. And while some adaptations of this chocolate cake recipe list granulated sugar as one of the ingredients, I used the recommended caster (superfine) sugar.  And because I had the European version of the cookbook, I measured all of my ingredients using either a scale or measuring cup with millileter markings. In other words, I tried to be 'ingredient' true to the original recipe as possible. Note: The recipe below provides both US and metric amounts.


In the original recipe, the butter, chocolate and hot coffee are combined in a bowl and stirred until the chocolate and butter melt completely. Instead, I placed those three ingredients in a bowl set over a pan over simmering water and stirred until everything melted. Before removing the bowl from the simmering water, I added the caster sugar and whisked until it melted. Because the mixture was 'warm' I was concerned adding the eggs to the chocolate mixture would result in 'cooked, curdled' eggs. To ensure this didn't happen, I first tempered the eggs by mixing them with a small amount (about 1/4 cup) of the chocolate mixture before adding them in. All of these adaptations worked.


After adding and whisking in the sifted dry ingredients, the batter is poured into a prepared (lightly buttered, parchment paper lined) 9" (23 cm) round cake or springform pan. This cake batter will seem unusually thin, but the recipe assures us not to worry about this consistency as this is how it should be. So don't worry.

The conversion of Celcius to Fahrenheit is a bit messy. 170 degrees (C) actually converts to 338 degrees (F). Most American gas ovens don't have this finite level of fahrenheit designation so there is a tendency to either round up or round down Celcius listed temperatures. Instead, I tried to gauge my oven setting slightly below the 350 degree (F) mark to get as close to what I thought might be the 338 degrees (F) temperature as possible. My baking time was just a couple of minutes longer than the recommended 60 minutes. But if you round up to 350 degrees (F), begin checking your cake around the 50 minute mark so you don't over bake it.

Unlike most other baked cakes, this one forms a top crust and has a cracked surface. Again, Ottolenghi and Goh tell us not to worry as this is how it should be.

While the cake bakes, begin making the chocolate ganache. It can be made in either a food processor or a bowl. I used both the food processor and the bowl. When all of the ingredients are mixed together, the ganache is very pourable thin. If you desire a cake to have a thin coating of chocolate, would recommend allowing the ganache to rest 10-15 minutes (just to slightly increase its viscosity) before pouring all over the cake. But if want the top of your cake to be slathered in a thick layer of ganache as I did, allow it rest for 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Note: Regardless if you want to a thin or thick layer of ganache on your cake, allow the cake to cool completely before icing.


To keep the ganache from forming a film or drying out, cover with plastic wrap while resting. Ensuring the plastic wrap actually touches the top of the ganache.

This may be one of the most luxurious ganaches I have ever made. 


After icing the cake, I decided to sprinkle flakes of sea salt around the edge of cake. You can be a ganache purist and leave it off (although it was a great add) or you can top your cake with sprinkles or marzipan shapes. Be as simple or as fancy as your heart desires.


After serving the first piece of Chocolate Cake with Ganache Icing, I decided to serve the second piece with some vanilla ice cream. Lightly sweetened whipped cream or the recommended Espresso Cinnamon Mascarpone Cream would be great accompaniments to this cake.


If there was ever a cake to express your love or gratitude, this Chocolate Cake with Ganache Icing would be it. If there was ever a cake to make for anyone who has a serious affinity for a rich chocolate cake, this Chocolate Cake with Ganache Icing would seriously exceed their chocolate cake loving dreams. And if I ever get the chance to cook and/or bake with the woman who sent me the highly coveted cookbook containing the recipe for this chocolate cake, I will have it waiting for her when she arrives in my kitchen as a small repayment for her kindness.

Recipe
Chocolate Cake with Ganache Icing (a very slight adaptation to the Take-home Chocolate Cake recipe from the cookbook 'Sweet' written by Yotam Ottolenghi and Helen Goh)
Serves 10-12

Ingredients
Cake
1 cup plus 1 1/2 Tablespoons (250 g) unsalted butter, room temperature, cut into 3/4 inch pieces (recommend a European or European style butter)
7 ounces (200 g) dark chocolate (70% cocoa) chopped into 3/4 inch pieces
1 1/2 teaspoons instant espresso or instant coffee granules
1 1/2 cups (350 ml) boiling water
1 1/4 cups (250 g) caster or superfine sugar
2 large eggs
2 teaspoons high quality vanilla 
1 3/4 cups plus 2 Tablespoons (240 g) self-rising flour
1/3 cup (30 g) Dutch processed cocoa powder
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

Ganache
7 ounces (200 g) dark chocolate (70% cocoa) chopped into 3/4 inch pieces
3/4 cup (180 ml) heavy whipping cream
1 Tablespoon of golden syrup or corn syrup
1 Tablespoon unsalted butter, room temperature
Optional: Flaky sea salt for sprinkling on top of cake

Espresso Cinnamon Mascarpone Cream
1 1/2 cups plus 1 Tablespoon (375 ml) heavy whipping cream
3/4 cup (190 g) mascarpone
2 1/2 teaspoons instant espresso granules
3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 1/2 Tablespoons confectionary sugar
Scraped seeds of 1/2 vanilla bean or 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla

Directions
Cake
1. Preheat oven to 338 degrees (F) or 170 degrees (C). Line a 9 inch cake pan or springform pan with parchment paper. Lightly butter top of paper and sides of pan.
2. Stir together the boiling water and espresso or coffee granules until completely dissolved.
3. Sift together the flour, cocoa powder and kosher salt. Set aside.
4. Place butter, chocolate and hot coffee in a large heatproof bowl set over a pan of steaming water. Stir until everything is melted, combined and smooth.
5. Whisk in sugar and stir until dissolved.
6. Remove bowl from pan and pour into a larger bowl.
7. In a small bowl whisk together the eggs. Add a small amount of the chocolate mixture to combine (to ensure eggs do not cook). Add egg mixture and vanilla to chocolate mixture, whisk until completely blended. 
8. Whisk the sifted dry ingredients into the chocolate mixture until fully incorporated. Note: Batter will very very liquidy, but this is the consistency it should have.
9. Pour mixture into prepared cake pan. Bake for approximately 60 - 65 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean or with just a few dry crumbs attached. Note: The top of the cake will form a crust and will be cracked. Again, not to worry as this is how it should look when baked.
10. Allow the cake to cool in the pan for at least 20 minutes before removing. Allow to cool completely before icing with the chocolate ganache.
11. Ice cake using the ganache. Optional: Lightly sprinkle the iced cake with flaky sea salt.
12. Serve with Espresso Cinnamon Mascarpone Cream (see below), lightly sweetened whipped cream or a high quality vanilla ice cream.

Ganache
1. Place pieces of chocolate in a small food processor. Pulse until finely chopped.
2. Heat cream and golden syrup (or corn syrup) in a small pan set over medium-high heat. As soon as bubbles begin to appear, remove from the heat. Slowly pour into the food processor. Process until the chocolate is melted.
3. Transfer mixture to a medium size bowl. Add butter and whisk until the mixture is shiny and smooth.
4. Cover the ganache with plastic wrap, with plastic wrap touching the entire surface of the ganache. Set aside until it has the consistency desired. For a thicker ganache, allow to set at room temperature for 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Note: If you want a thin layer of ganache over the cake, pour over the entire cake while the mixture is still liquidy and before it begins to set up.

Espresso Cinnamon Mascarpone Cream
1. Place all ingredients in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Beat for several minutes or until soft peaks form.

Notes: (1) The original recipe did not call for setting the bowl of butter, chocolate and hot coffee in a bowl over a pan of simmering water. But rather stirring the mixture in a bowl until all of the chocolate and butter is melted. Can use either method to melt the butter and chocolate. (2) If making the cake in smaller pans (3 inch, 4 inch, or 6 inch sizes), will need to adjust baking time. (3) I used the Ghiradelli 70% bittersweet chocolate for the cake and ganache. (4) As this is a very dense, chocolatey cake, would recommend serving with side of the Espresso Cinnamon Mascarpone Cream (see below), lightly sweetened whipped cream or a high quality vanilla ice cream.


Fall in Little Compton, Rhode Island


Thursday, September 21, 2017

Apple Crisp


Tomorrow is the meteorological arrival of autumn although we are in the midst of a record high heat wave. With temperatures in the 90s my plan to spend a day apple picking has temporarily been put on hold. Instead of handpicking apples off of the fruit laden trees in the apple orchard in order to create intoxicating aromas coming out of the kitchen, I had to settle for picking them out of the bins at the Farmer's Market. Yes, the effect was still the same. My grandiose plan of making my first apple crisp of the fall season using hand picked by me apples went belly up. Waiting another week until the fall weather arrived to make a romanticized version of an 'orchard to table' apple crisp was certainly an option. But when one (that one being me) gets a serious craving for something and there is a new recipe one (me again) can't wait to try, a week can seem like an eternity. Waiting has never been high on my list of virtues.


Two years ago I went on endlessly extolling the virtues of the Brown Butter Caramelized Apple Crisp and then four years ago I sang the praises of Shirley's Apple Crisp,. And now I am about to get on another soapbox and tell you about my newest favorite. This Apple Crisp isn't necessary better than the other two, it's different. An incredibly, mouthwatering, delicious, good different. And I am a fan of different.

Depending on your definition of an apple crisp you might think I am passing off a crumble as a crisp. If crisp and crumble (words often used interchangeably) were merged, there might such things as 'crimbles' or 'crusps'. But until such time either of these variations goes mainstream, I am going to stay with calling this a crisp even though oatmeal isn't one of the ingredients. And here's why.


According to Serious Eats, 'crisp and crumble are regional names often used interchangeably to name a crumb-topped baked fruit dish.' In other words, what you call it may depend on where you grew up. Generally, a crisp is a deep dish fruit dessert topped with 'a streusel made of butter, sugar, flour, nuts, oats and/or crumbs'. Crumbles, like a crisp and even a cobbler, have a bottom layer of fruit and a top crumb layer. The crumb layer in crumbles are generally made with butter, flour, sugar, sometimes nuts and always oats. The most significance difference between the crumble and crisp is the texture of the topping. Crumbles are clumpier and crisps are crispier. The cookie-like extra crispy topping of this Apple Crisp gives it its' 'crisp worthy' name. 


I never told you to use more than one type of apple when making the other crisp recipes posted to the blog. My bad. It took making this Apple Crisp with two different kinds of apples for me to see the error of my ways. 


I went with using three pounds of a combination of Honey Crisp and Granny Smith apples as I prefer the taste of sweet-tart apples. Both of these apples fall into that category, although their baked textures differs slightly. Honey Crisp being a little on the softer side and Granny Smith being on the little firmer side is what gives this baked crisp the best of both apple texture worlds. (See note below for other apple options.)


When using fresh apples, you can leave some of the skin on the apple slices. Or you can peel them so no trace of skin remains. If you choose to have a little bit of skin remain on your cut apples, make sure the skin isn't tough (which might happen with apples kept in the refrigerator for a long time). 


You can either core your apples before cutting them or cut around the core before slicing. Either way works. Cut your apples in slightly different thicknesses ranging from a generous 1/4" to a generous 3/8". For apples having a softer texture, cut them a little thicker (3/8") and for apples having a firmer texture, cut them in either or both of the aforementioned thicknesses. 


Sugar, salt, freshly squeezed lemon juice and the zest of a lemon are mixed together and poured over the sliced apples. After the apples are poured into your baking pan, mix in a sprinkling of cinnamon.


Unsalted butter, sugar, all-purpose flour, cinnamon and salt make up the topping. That's it. Just five ingredients.


The dough can be mixed in a standing mixer fitted with a whisk attachment or with a handheld mixer. Once mixed it will have a texture similar to a cookie dough. To make the assembly of the crisp easier, I rolled the dough into a log, chilled it for an hour, and then cut in slices to top the apples. See note below for alternative way of topping the apples with the dough.


The slices of dough are layered over the apples. Leave a few gaps so the steam from the baking apples can escape during baking.


I topped this Apple Crisp with some White Sparkling Sugar. You could also top with either Sanding Sugar or Turbinado Sugar. Or you can leave the added sugar topping off altogether.

The original recipe recommended a baking time of 90 minutes in a 350 degree (F) preheated oven. My baking time was somewhere between 60 and 65 minutes. 

Allow the baked Apple Crisp to cool slightly if serving warm. 


What makes this Apple Crisp so endearing are its' flavors and textures. From the crunchy cinnamon cookie like topping to the caramelized apples, this crisp was beyond delicious even before a scoop of vanilla ice cream was added. It definitely ranks as one of the most satisfying comfort food desserts. It's one worthy of being served either after a causal or fancy dinner. 

There are so many desserts to welcome the fall season. But none may be better at embracing the change in seasons than a rustic, soul satisfying Apple Crisp. Especially this one. Start making this crisp NOW, put into your baking rotation throughout the winter, give it a rest in the spring, and then let it make a repeat appearance or two in the summer. What I am trying to say is that THIS Apple Crisp could become habit forming. 

Recipe
Apple Crisp (a very slight change to Tartine's Apple Crisp recipe)
Updated September 30, 2019)

Ingredients
3 - 3 1/2 pounds of 2-4 varieties of apples (Honey Crisp and Granny Smith were used in this version)
1/4 cup (50g) granulated sugar
3 Tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
Zest of one lemon
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
very generous pinch of ground cinnamon

1 cup (225g) unsalted butter, slightly softened
1 cup (200g) granulated sugar (or 3/4 cup granulated sugar and 1/4 cup light or dark brown sugar)
1 1/4 cups (170g) all-purpose flour
1 Tablespoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
Sanding, Sparkling or Turbinado sugar for finishing
Vanilla Ice Cream

Directions
1. Place butter and sugar in a medium-large sized bowl. Using a hand mixer or standing mixer fitted with a whisk attachment beat until smooth.
2. Add the flour, cinnamon, and kosher salt. Mix until mixture comes together in a smooth dough.
3. Flip the bowl over onto a long piece of plastic wrap. Using the plastic wrap, shape the dough into a log (about 12 inches long). Wrap tightly and chill in the refrigerator for one hour.
4. Peel (some or all) of the apples. Core or cut around core. Cut into slices of various thicknesses (e.g., ranging from a generous 1/4" to a generous 3/8") and place into a large bowl.
5. In a small bowl, sir together the sugar, lemon juice, lemon zest and salt. Add to apples. Toss together with a wooden spoon or with your hands.
6. Transfer the apples to a 9"x12" baking dish and shake until they are in an even layer. (Optional: Lightly butter pan before adding the apples.)
7. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (F).
8. Remove roll of dough from the refrigerator. Cut into 1/4" slices and arrange to cover the top of the apples. Note: Leave some small gaps in the dough rounds to allow the steam to escape during baking.
9. Sprinkles with sanding, sparkling or turbinado sugar if using.
10. Place pan in the center of the oven and bake for 60-65 minutes or until apples are tender and top is golden brown. 
11. Let cool on a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature with or without vanilla ice cream.
12. The crisp will keep for up to a week if covered and stored in the refrigerator.

Notes: (1) Can use only variety of apple, but using at least two varieties (and up to 4) creates an apple crisp with a deeper flavor. Apple options include: Granny Smith, Greening, Gravenstein, Winesap, Gala, Fuji, Pink Lady and Honey Crisp. (2) Instead of forming the dough into the log and chilling, scoop up the dough into palm-sized balls, flatten each scoop to 1/4" thick as if you are making a tortilla and lay on top of the apples. (3) The thickness of the cut apple will affect baking time. Thicker cut apples may have a slightly longer baking time. However, if apples are cut too thin, their may dissolve into an applesauce like consistency.

Fall apples at the Farmer's Market (September 2017)



Tuesday, September 12, 2017

Pumpkin Bread with Maple Drizzle and Pepitas


"Be still my heart." Last week one of my friends sent me a message saying she was bringing me a dozen farm fresh, free range eggs. The real deal ones. Farm fresh eggs are one of those things I genuinely get super excited about as I am one of those 'fresh eggs make everything they are made with better' zealots. My affinity for these goldenrod yellow, autumn glory orange in color eggs began several years ago when I lived in a town on the east coast where farm fresh eggs were the norm rather than the exception. It didn't take me too long to decide I would bake something to share with this unexpected gift. After I first made some poached or scrambled eggs, of course.


But what recipe would be worthy of being made with these farm fresh, free range eggs?


Pumpkin Bread with Maple Drizzle and Pepitas, my version of Tartine Bakery's Pumpkin Tea Cake recipe as shared in their cookbook 'Tartine' would be. Next to caramel, I love the taste of maple and pumpkin paired together. Adding the maple icing to the pumpkin tea cake would be my take to their beloved pumpkin tea cake.

When I first looked at the ingredients in the recipe for the Pumpkin Tea Cake, I thought it took the concept of pumpkin spice to an extreme. Two teaspoons of freshly grated nutmeg, one tablespoon and two teaspoons of cinnamon, and a quarter teaspoon of ground cloves seemed 'way too much'. I debated as to whether or not to alter these amounts, but ultimately decided this was going to be one of those 'go big or go home' pumpkin breads. I crossed my fingers three of my farm fresh eggs weren't going to be wasted. Discovering one of the eggs used to make this pumpkin bread had a double yolk was an omen they wouldn't be.

I used a hand mixer to make this Pumpkin Bread, but it could easily be made with a whisk. Key to this bread's soft, tender crumb is not over mixing.


The batter for this pumpkin bread should have the consistency of a thick puree.


To make the removal of any bread from the pan easier I always line with parchment paper along with spraying the bottom and sides of the pan with a vegetable spray.

Tartine's recipe called for a sugar and pepita finish to the pumpkin bread. Before putting the pan in the oven, I sprinkled the bread with a sanding sugar to create a crunchy top. My baking time for this Pumpkin Bread was closer to the 75 minute versus the recommended 60 minute mark. Because there is always some degree of variability in an oven's temperature, I would recommend to begin checking for doneness at 60 minutes.


Rather than evenly slathered or created a fancy design with the Maple Icing over the top of this cake, I decided to channel my inner Jackson Pollock. So I drizzled and splattered the icing before sprinkling on the pepitas to create an abstract art finished Pumpkin Bread. The addition of the rich, thick Maple Icing not only adds the right amount of sweetness to this Pumpkin Bread, it gives you a chance to express yourself.


This aromatic, richly flavored, perfectly (thankfully unaltered) spiced Pumpkin Bread exceeded all of my expectations. It's irresistibly, borderline addictive, swoon worthy delicious. In other words, it is what I would describe as 'wicked good'. If you haven't jumped on the Pumpkin Spice bandwagon yet this season, get on board with this Pumpkin Bread with Maple Drizzle and Pepitas. With or without farm fresh, free range eggs, you will fall in love with the depth of this pumpkin bread's flavors, texture, and moistness.


Next to chocolate it seems I have a thing for pumpkin. In addition to this recipe for the Pumpkin Bread with Maple Drizzle and Pepitas, seven other pumpkin recipes have been posted to the blog over the past several years: Pumpkin SquaresPumpkin PieBrĂ»lĂ©ed Pumpkin Pie with Caramel SwirlSpiced Pumpkin Layer Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting, Brown Butter Pumpkin Spice CakeMaple Glazed Mini-Pumpkin Doughnuts, and this Pumpkin Loaf aka a Close Starbucks Version. Eight great reasons for putting to good use those cans of pumpkin puree I have been apparently hoarding. 

Recipe
Pumpkin Bread with Maple Drizzle and Pepitas (slight adaptation to the Pumpkin Tea Cake recipe shared by Elizabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson in their cookbook 'Tartine")
Serves 8 to 10 

Ingredients
Pumpkin Bread
1 2/3 cups (225 g) all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 Tablespoon + 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup + 2 Tablespoons (255 g) pumpkin puree
1 cup vegetable oil
1 1/3 cups (270 g) granulated sugar
3 large eggs, room temperature
Sanding sugar and pepitas for finishing

Maple Drizzle
4 Tablespoon unsalted butter
2 Tablespoons good quality maple syrup or bourbon infused maple syrup
1 cup confectionary sugar, sifted

Directions
Pumpkin Bread
1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees (F). Line a 9"x5" baking pan with parchment paper after first preparing with vegetable spray or butter.
2. In a medium sized bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and salt. Set aside.
3. In another bowl, beat together the pumpkin puree, oil and sugar on medium speed until well blended. Use either a hand mixer or a whisk.
4. Add eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition and making sure they are well incorporated before adding the next egg. 
5. On low speed, add the flour mixture and beat just until combined. Scrape down sides of the bowl and beat on medium speed for 5 to 10 seconds to make a smooth batter. Batter will have the consistency of a thick puree.
6. Transfer batter to the prepared pan. Smooth top with an offset spatula. Sprinkle with sparkling sugar if using.
7. Bake for 60-75 minutes or until a cake tester inserted into the center of the bread comes out clean. Note: More than likely the baking time will be longer than 60 minutes. Mine was 75 minutes.
8. Transfer loaf pan to cooling rack and allow to rest for 20 minutes.
9. Remove pumpkin bread from the pan and carefully set back on cooling rack. Allow to cool completely before finishing with maple drizzle if using. Approximately 1 hour. Sprinkle pepitas over the maple drizzle.
10. Cut into slices and serve. 
11. If well wrapped, the Pumpkin Bread will keep at room temperature for several days or up to 1 week if stored in the refrigerator.

Maple Drizzle
1. In a small saucepan, melt butter. Stir in maple syrup. Remove from heat and allow to rest 5 minutes.
2. Stir in sifted confectionary sugar mixing with a whisk until well blended and smooth.

Notes: (1) If you aren't a fan of maple icing, top the cake with sanding sugar and pepitas to the top of the pumpkin bread before putting in the oven to bake. (2) Use a good quality maple syrup when making the maple icing.

Friday, September 8, 2017

Potato Salad


There is nothing quite like watching potato salad aficionados become weak in the knees or begin to drool in anticipation when a big bowl of homemade potato salad is set on the table. Especially a classic potato salad, the one lovingly made by the grandmothers, mothers, and Aunt Toni's in our lives. The paprika kissed top, brimming with red potatoes, sweet onions, celery, hard-boiled eggs, sweet pickles, and mayonnaise kind. Every family has their sacred, 'it's not broken so don't fix it', throw down worthy version of a homemade potato salad recipe. However, more often than not, these recipes aren't always written down. Instead they are passed down through the generations via word of mouth or learned by hovering in the kitchen and keeping a very close eye on potato salad maker.

Without a doubt, making a homemade potato salad is a labor of love. Which may explain in part why it is so crave worthy delicious. And why it usually makes only special appearances.


This Potato Salad made a reappearance over the Labor Day weekend. 


To prevent your potatoes from being too mushy or too hard, pick out same or similar sized red potatoes. Smaller ones are preferable to larger ones as they are the most flavorful. In a large pan of cold salted water, bring first to a boil and then immediately turn down to a simmer. The potatoes are done when the tip of a sharp knife inserted into them midway goes in smoothly. Allowing the potatoes to cool completely is key as warm potatoes will add moisture to your potato salad. A good way to begin passing this recipe along to your family and friends is to invite them over to peel your perfectly cooked potatoes.


There are no exact specifications to the size of the potato salad chunks. Some of mine are half-inch chunks, some a little smaller, some a little larger as I like a potato salad that looks like it was homemade.

There are also no hard and fast ratio rules with regard to the potatoes, onions, and celery. I use a medium sized sweet yellow onion and about 3-4 stalks of celery. Before I add any other of the ingredients I make sure to mix together the cut potatoes, onions, and celery. If it looks there isn't enough onion or celery, I might add a little more. I don't want the onion and celery to overwhelm the star of the show potatoes, but I do want to make sure every fork bite has some crunch to it. As laissez-faire as I might be about the sizes of the cut potatoes, I am all about cutting the onions and celery into an as even as possible small dice.

Some homemade potato salads use dill pickles and some use sweet pickles (with or without some added pickle brine). This one uses only sweet pickles. Note: Sweet pickle relish is not the same as chopped sweet pickles.

It's hard to say what makes this humble Potato Salad so wicked good. But the dozen, roughly chopped hard boiled eggs might be one of the front runners. Yes, one dozen (large) hard-boiled eggs. And even more if you like finishing the top of your potato salad with hard boiled egg slices. 


Before adding in the mayonnaise I mix in the salt and pepper, so I can decide if it needs any more after the mayonnaise is mixed in. So let's talk about a bit about the mayonnaise. I don't add all of it at once. I start with 1 1/4 cups, mixing with a spatula to begin evenly coating the vegetables. Then I start adding more mayonnaise in 1/4 cup increments to ensure the salad is not 'over-mayonnaised'. Usually I end up using somewhere between 1 1/2 and a generous 1 3/4 cups of mayonnaise. If not serving the potato salad until later or the next day, I won't add all of the mayonnaise all at once but will mix in more if needed. 

Taste for seasoning and then transfer all of this amazingly goodness into a serving bowl.


Serve immediately, chill for several hours, or chill overnight. Any and all of these options work.


When I am craving a homemade potato salad, I will either make the Lemony Potato Salad or this one. They are both amazingly good. Once you taste either one of them, you will find it hard to ever consider serving a store bought version to your family and friends again. 

Potato Salad
Recipe
Serves 10-12

Ingredients
5 pounds red potatoes, unpeeled (Note: Choose same sized potatoes, preferably ones on the smaller size)
1 medium sized yellow or other sweet onion, diced (about 1 to 1 1/4 cups)
3 - 4 stalks of celery, diced (about 1 to 1 1/4 cups)
12 large eggs, hard boiled, peeled, coarsely chopped (plus more for garnishing on top if desired)
5-6 medium sized (3") sweet pickles, finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
2 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt or more to taste
1 1/2 teaspoons black pepper
1 1/2 to a generous 1 3/4 cups mayonnaise (I use Hellman's)
Sweet paprika for garnish

Directions
1. Place potatoes in a large pan of salted water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Cook potatoes for approximately 30-35 minutes or until a sharp knife inserted into the potatoes goes in easily. (Note: Be careful not to cook the potatoes to the point where they begin to severely blister or get too mushy.)
2. Drain potatoes and allow to come to room temperature. The potatoes should feel cool to the touch.
3. Peel potatoes and cut into chunks (e.g. approximately 1/2" dice).
4. Mix together the cut potatoes, onion, celery, sweet pickles, kosher salt and pepper.
5. Add in coarsely chopped hard-boiled eggs. Mix until well incorporated throughout the potato mixture.
6. Stir in about 1 1/4 cups of mayonnaise using a spatula to begin to evenly coat the vegetables. Add an additional mayonnaise in 1/4 cup increments or until vegetables are evenly coated but not drenched in mayonnaise. Usually this brings the total amount of mayonnaise somewhere between 1 3/4 and 2 cups of mayonnaise.
7. Taste for seasoning. Add additional salt and/or pepper if needed. Transfer to a serving bowl.
8. Serve immediately or cover and chill for several hours.

Notes: (1) This makes enough for a large gathering. If serving less people, cut all of the ingredients in half. (2) Could also make this potato salad using all varieties of waxy potatoes (red, fingerling, or new potatoes). 



Forest Preserve views (September 2017)