Almond Pecan Buttercrunch Toffee

It is quite possible you are on candy and cookie overload right about now. Incorporating one new recipe into your holiday baking routine, making one more batch of anything, or discovering that someone has been into those tins of cookies you thought you had cleverly hidden from sight might be enough to push you over or at least to the edge. After sending off boxes of goodies to friends back east earlier this week (who else went to the Post Office on the busiest shipping day of the year?), I am getting the 'second wind' I was hoping for. My supply of caramels, peppermint bark, white chocolate pistachio shortbread cookies, Irish shortbread, and chocolate covered nuts has dwindled significantly over the past couple of weeks. Looking at the supply of unsalted butter in my refrigerator would cause one to think I was preparing for a worldwide butter shortage or baking for a significant portion of the free world.

Before making the Almond Pecan Buttercrunch Toffee I decided to look through a few cookbooks as well as some do a web search just in case I wanted to make some tweaks to the recipe someone had given me years ago. In the process of this quasi-research, I came across recipes called toffee, buttercrunch, and some even called buttercrunch toffee. This simple endeavor was now becoming more complicated. Allegedly traditional English Toffee is made from brown sugar while buttercrunch is made with granulated sugar. In addition to the sugar distinction, traditional English Toffee is generally only coated in chocolate. Whereas, buttercrunch is coated with chocolate and a variety of different topping (nuts being the most common). With the words toffee and buttercrunch being used so interchangeably some have resorted to calling this confection buttercrunch toffee. Seeing as the recipe I had is a little bit toffee a little bit buttercrunch, I thought I too would jump on the buttercrunch toffee bandwagon when renaming this recipe.

The more I read, the more patterns amongst the recipes there seemed to be. Most had a one cup of butter to one cup of sugar ratio. While most cooked the toffee until it reached a temperature of 300 degrees (F) on a candy thermometer, the recommended temperatures ranged from 285 degrees (F) to 315 degrees (F). In comparing ingredients, some recipes listed water some didn't; some listed vanilla, some didn't; some had salt, some didn't; some used corn syrup, some didn't; some used only one kind of nut, some used more than one. You get the picture. In the end, I decided to add both vanilla and kosher salt to the recipe I had; toast the pecans before chopping them; cook the mixture until it reached 305 degrees (F); use only two tablespoons of corn syrup; and sprinkle a little sea salt on the melted chocolate before sprinkling on the chopped pecans.

The time expended on all of this 'toffee research' turned out to be time well spent. All of the changes made to my toffee recipe turned out to be ones for the best. Equally important to adjusting and altering some of the ingredients, I found some of the toffee making techniques shared by Valerie Gordon in her cookbook Sweet to be valuable, useful information.

My original recipe called for slivered almonds, but I used sliced raw almonds instead. For a more rustic or Almond Roca-ish look to the toffee I would probably chop up raw whole almonds in the food processor. Either way it is 'raw unsalted ' almonds you want for this toffee.

Whenever bringing something to a relatively high temperature, your pan matters, your pan really, really matters.  Use a copper pan, heavy stainless steel pan (All-Clad works well) or a cast-iron one (like Le Creuset). If you are still putting together your wish list for the holidays or have time to add to or modify it, wish for a 3 quart copper pan (trust me you will be using this pan for more than just making toffee or caramels).

The questions asked most often when making toffee are 'how often do you stir it and what kitchen tool should one use?'. Until the mixture reaches 250 degrees (F), you will stir it occasionally. Between 250 and 290 degrees (F) you will stir a little more frequently, and from 290 degrees (F) to 305 degrees (F) you stir constantly (to prevent burning). And your best stirring tools? Either a wooden spoon or heatproof silicone spatula.

When the mixture reaches 305 degrees (F), remove from the heat and immediately stir in the vanilla and almonds before pouring into a parchment paper lined 12"x18" inch baking/jellyroll pan (one with sides). After smoothing the toffee with an offset spatula, allow it to sit for one minute before first lightly sprinkling with sea salt followed by the chopped milk chocolate.

Allow the chocolate to rest on the toffee for at least two minutes before spreading evenly over the toffee. While the chocolate is still 'wet' sprinkle with the toasted, chopped pecans. The toffee should rest for at least 20 minutes before the pan is placed in the refrigerator.

After one hour, remove the buttercrunch toffee from the refrigerator and break into pieces.

Unless you are planning to serve the Almond Pecan Buttercrunch Toffee immediately, store in a sealed air-tight container. I would also suggest you hide it if you are planning to serve it at a gathering or for Christmas or risk having it disappear.

This is seriously delicious buttery, nutty toffee. You are going to be making it all winter.

I am thinking this might be the last 'holiday confection' post before Christmas. But then again, I may get a 'third' wind and will surprise you (and myself) with another 'visions of sugar plums' post. However, there is a recipe for Creamy Potato Casserole I want you to have before Christmas (its one I didn't get posted before Thanksgiving, but its also one with very few photographs), so that will be up next. Time for me to start getting closer to the edge, again.

Recipe
Almond Pecan Buttercrunch Toffee (technique inspired by Valerie Gordon's recipe in her cookbook Sweet)

Ingredients
1 pound (16 ounces) unsalted butter
2 cups granulated sugar
2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 Tablespoons light corn syrup
1 Tablespoon and 1 teaspoon vanilla
1 1/2 cups raw sliced or chopped almonds
1 cup pecans, roasted, finely chopped
12-14 ounces milk chocolate, chopped
Sea salt for finishing

Directions
1. Line a 12"x18" baking pan with parchment paper. Set aside.
2. Put butter in a heavy 3 quart copper or heavy stainless steel saucepan and set over medium-low heat. When butter is half melted, gradually add sugar, stirring with either a wooden or heatproof silicone spatula. Continue stirring until mixture takes on a thick creamy texture.
3. Attach thermometer to side of pan, increase heat to medium-high, stirring toffee mixture occasionally until it reaches 250 degrees (F). 
4. When it reaches 250 degrees (F), stir slightly more frequently. At 290 degrees (F) stir constantly to prevent any burning. Continue cooking and stirring until mixture reaches 305 (F) degrees.
5. Remove from heat, quickly stirring in vanilla and almonds. Pour mixture into prepared baking pan. Using an offset spatula, smooth mixture (it should fill the entire pan).
6. Let sit at least 1 minute before lightly sprinkling with sea salt, followed by sprinkling with the chopped milk chocolate.
7. Allow the chocolate to set at least 2 minutes before spreading with an offset spatula.
8. Sprinkle chopped roasted pecans over chocolate. Tap pan on counter to set pecans.
9. Allow to cool at least 20 minutes. Place in refrigerator for 1 hour. 
10. Remove from refrigerator, break into pieces.
11. Store in a sealed, air-tight container.

"Art attracts us only by what it reveals of our most secret self." (Jean-Luc Godard) Two of the images from the New Orleans Museum of Art taken in December, 2014 that caught my eye.

Peppermint Bark

There are moments when the adage 'less is more' is one I can see myself fully embracing. Often these moments are short-lived, however, the older I get or the more I overextend myself, the longer they seem to linger. The fact that these moments are even occurring at all is nothing short of a miracle. You know, those kind of miracles you might wish and hope for, all the while remaining guardedly optimistic they will actually occur. Then you watch "Miracle on the 34th Street" for the millionth time and no matter how old you are, you can't help but believe miracles really do, really can happen. All you have to do is just believe, to just have faith.

Taking advantage of believing there is something to be said for simplicity, I decided to finally make Peppermint Bark, one with only two layers of chocolate (remember I am trying to stay in the less is more moment for as long as possible). 

As I was making the bark I began to wonder why I had never made it before. I could not come up with any rational reason why Peppermint Bark wasn't one of those annually made confections. However, now having made it, there will never ever again be another holiday where Peppermint Bark is not packaged up for gifts or not appearing on the cookie/candy platter at gatherings.

Recently I had taken a cooking class in New Orleans, learning and watching how both pralines and bread pudding were made. Of the many takeaways from this class there are some things where exactness is critical and other things where almost anything goes. Peppermint Bark falls more into 'where anything goes' category. How much chocolate you use or which peppermint candies you use is more about preference. My preferences are semi-sweet and white chocolates and crushed (red) candy canes, but Peppermint Bark can be made with only one kind of chocolate or with crushed starlight mints. How much peppermint extract is used in the chocolate (I put it in the semi-sweet chocolate) isn't an exact science, however, there is such a thing as 'too much' when using this intensely flavored extract. After looking at a variety of recipes, I decided to use a 1/2 teaspoon of extract to one pound of chocolate ratio. Note: The melted semi-sweet chocolate seized a little when I added the extract, however, I kept stirring until the chocolate returned to its's smooth consistency.

When I was buying candy canes for the Peppermint Bark I went back and forth on deciding whether to use either red or green ones or to use both red and green candy canes. Obviously I had too much time on my hands that day to have spent time standing in the grocery store aisle debating the merits of red and green candy canes. Use whatever color or colors make you happy. Just crush your peppermint candy before you begin melting the chocolates.

After melting a pound of semi-sweet chocolate flavored with 1/2 teaspoon of peppermint extract, I spread it out on a piece of parchment paper and allowed it to set before melting the white chocolate. I used 1 1/4 pounds of white chocolate for no other reason than to give the crushed candy canes a deeper surface to set in.

Once the white chocolate is poured over the cooled, set semi-sweet chocolate, you need to work quickly to spread it. While still 'wet' generously sprinkle with the crushed candies.

The Peppermint Bark sets up relatively quickly. You can speed up the process by placing it in the refrigerator or in a very cool place (the back patio table is my favorite winter outdoor chilling place).

Using either a knife or other sharp tool (I used a dough scraper), cut the Peppermint Bark into any size or any shape. It be cut in random or perfect sizes/shapes. As momentarily difficult as it was to make the red or green candy decision, I knew I wanted this Peppermint Bark to be cut haphazardly (there is much beauty in imperfection). Note: If you cut your pieces too small you risk having the semi-sweet chocolate layer separate from the white chocolate layer. 

The pieces of Peppermint Bark can be stored in a sealed tin at room temperature until ready to serve or packaged up in cellophane bags tied with ribbon or string for gifts. It may be rather bold, but I dare say I think this Peppermint Bark may be better than the bark sold at one of my favorite 'shall remain nameless' stores. 

Recipe
Peppermint Bark

Ingredients
1 pound semi-sweet chocolate, melted (use the best semi-sweet chocolate you can find, do not use the chocolate chips you buy to make cookies)
1/2 teaspoon peppermint extract
1 1/4 pounds white chocolate, melted (use the best white chocolate you can find, do not use the chocolate chips you buy to make cookies)
10-12 candy canes, crushed

Directions
1. Line a large baking sheet or cutting board with parchment paper.
2. Melt semi-sweet chocolate in the microwave or over simmering water. When melted, stir in peppermint extract. Note: Mixture may initially seize up, but stir vigorously to return chocolate to smooth consistency.
3. Pour chocolate onto parchment paper and smooth into a 14"x16" rectangle. Allow to cool.
4. Melt white chocolate in the microwave or over simmering water. Pour over semi-sweet chocolate. Working quickly spread white chocolate with an off-set spatula, completely covering the semi-sweet chocolate.
5. Immediately sprinkle the crushed candy canes on the 'wet' white chocolate. Allow to cool completely.
6. When chocolate has cooled and is set, cut bark up into pieces. Note: Use a sharp knife or sharp dough scraper to cut the bark.
7. Wrap in cellophane bags tied tightly with a ribbon/string or store in an airtight container.

"We wander for distraction. We travel for fulfillment." New Orleans is a city I have visited many times over the past ten years. But no matter how many times I have been somewhere, life experiences and interests have me seeing it through a different lens. A place becomes simultaneously both familiar and new.  When taking a short trip to a city one is familiar with, it is easy to get lulled into going to the same places you have been before. But on this recent trip with a friend, I wanted the experience of both the familiar and unfamiliar. Eating dinner at Bayona, having freshly shucked oysters at Acme Oyster House, and having beignets at Cafe du Monde were on the 'must do' familiar list. Going to a Gospel concert at St. Louis Cathedral was also on this list, only the concert scheduled during our stay turned out to be a French/Belgian folk/jazz concert featuring Helen Gillet, an incredibly talented cellist, singer and composer who grew up in both Europe and the US. It has now been several days since the concert, but the hauntingly beautiful music is still resonating in my head, in my soul. 

Instead of seeing parts of the Garden District from only the vantage point of the trolley, on this trip we walked up and down several streets to experience its' beauty and grandeur up close. Before heading over to the shops on Magazine street we spent most of our time on Prytania Street, one of the most beautiful streets I have ever walked. In keeping with a theme of trying to capture as much of the culture New Orleans has to offer, we went to the New Orleans Museum of Art, a place I had been before, however, we spent the majority our time there walking through the unfamiliar to me, magnificent Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden on a glorious weather day. With a backdrop of live oaks hanging with Spanish Moss along with the Pine and Magnolia trees, I could have spent the entire day in that sculpture garden. Next time. 

Sweet Potato Casserole

The last few days have been a whirlwind of traveling with barely any time to sit, relax and catch my breath. As much as I would like a short reprieve from what seems like a constant state of motion, the rather loud voice in my head 'you need to get moving on the 'absolutely have to get done over the course of next few weeks' long list of things' won't allow it. And whether or not it's just me, there is something a little anti-climatic about receiving a box of homemade Christmas cookies and confections after the holidays. In spite of knowing everything will all get done (it always does) I still can't help but feel a little stressed out as there seems to be more things on the 'to do' list than there are hours in the day to get them done. Overextending myself is a way of life.

In the spirit of 'better late than never' and getting at least one thing checked off of my to-do list, I am following up on the promise of sharing the recipes for a few more of my favorite casseroles. The ones often first appearing on the Thanksgiving dinner table yet also known to make a repeat appearance on either Christmas or New Year's Day. But don't for a minute let me mislead you into thinking that any casserole, particularly, this Sweet Potato Casserole can or should be served only several days a year or only on holidays.

In addition to being incredibly delicious, sweet potatoes are one of those vegetables having multiple health benefits.  Isn't it good to know that a casserole topped with mini-marshmallows might actually be better for you than you think? And what makes this casserole more flavorful and even more beautiful is the use of sweet potatoes having a deep orange or red color. Red Garnet or Hernandez varieties are usually available at most grocery stores or markets. But if you cannot find them, any sweet potato will work in this recipe.

Four pounds of sweet potatoes are baked in a preheated 400 degree oven for 75-90 minutes or until soft. Once cooled enough to handle, the sweet potato flesh is scooped out into a medium sized bowl.

You can use a food mill to puree the sweet potatoes, however, I have found mashing them with a fork works well. Personally I like this casserole to have a little texture to it. Once you have mashed the sweet potatoes to a relatively smooth consistency, the evaporated milk, granulated sugar, brown sugar, allspice, cinnamon, eggs, vanilla and melted butter are mixed in until fully incorporated.

The mixture is then poured into either a buttered oval casserole dish or 9"x12" baking dish.

Most sweet potato casseroles have a topping made of pecans, however, this one is topped with chopped roasted salted cashews transforming the humble root vegetable into something slightly more decadent. You could double the cashew topping and omit the mini-marshmallows if you are not a big fan of those white pillowy bites of goodness.

The entire casserole can be assembled a day ahead, covered, and refrigerated. I generally take the pre-asssembled, chilled casserole out of the refrigerator about an hour before baking and increase the baking time by approximately 15-20 minutes.

Because it was rather hectic here on Thanksgiving Day I wasn't able to capture a photo of what the Sweet Potato Casserole looked like when it finished baking. Just let me say that the browned mini-marshmallows and cashew topping make this a visually hard to resist dish.

Recipe
Sweet Potato Casserole (inspired by the Sweet Potato Casserole recipe shared in Saveur)
Updated November 25, 2020

Ingredients
4 pounds sweet potatoes, about 8-9 (recommend using Red Garnet or Hernandez sweet potatoes)
1/2 cup evaporated milk
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup light brown sugar
6 Tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
2 teaspoons vanilla 
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice or nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon Kosher salt

2 Tablespoons honey
2 large eggs, lightly beaten

3/4 cup roasted salted cashews
1/2 cup light brown sugar
3 Tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups mini-marshmallows

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. Place sweet potatoes on baking sheet, bake until soft (approximately 75 to 90 minutes). Remove from oven and cool for approximately 30 minutes. 
3. Reduce oven to 350 degrees.
4. Scoop sweet potato flesh into a medium sized bowl. Mash with a fork to a smooth consistency.
5. Whisk in evaporated milk, granulated sugar, brown sugar, melted butter, vanilla, allspice, cinnamon, salt, honey, and eggs.
6. Transfer mixture to lightly buttered oval baking casserole.
7. In a food processor, pulse together the cashews, brown sugar and flour until coarsely ground.
8. Sprinkle cashew mixture over the center of the casserole.
9. Sprinkle mini-marshmallows around perimeter of casserole.
10. Bake until marshmallows are golden brown and casserole is heated through, approximately 30 to 35 minutes.

Note: (1) Kosher salt and honey were the ingredients added to the sweet potato. (2) Casserole can be prepared a day ahead. Remove from the refrigerator at least an hour before baking. Baking time might need to increase to 40-45 minutes.

Luculles, the most beautiful culinary antique store in the French Quarter (New Orleans). 

Chocolate Caramel Fudge

I lost more than an hour of my life this past weekend hunting for the cross-stitched Christmas stockings had many, many years ago. In this what seemed like a lifetime of insanity I looked through the same drawers, cupboards, and cabinets again and again as if the stockings would suddenly and magically reappear. The person who shall remain nameless assured me they were not in the attic which was plausible as they have never been stored there. However, I was on a mission to find them. After several trips up into the abyss of the attic opening the multiple containers I thought maybe they could have been stored in, I came down empty handed. Waking up in the middle of night I decided I would go up in the attic one more time (to say I was obsessed in finding them would be a bit of an understatement). Just as I was about to give up the attic search I noticed a bag next to one of the Christmas trees. My first inclination was nothing of real sentimental or monetary value would be (or rather should be) stored in 'a bag', but then thought well 'maybe I should look in there just in case'. Alas, there they were. Relieved I had found them I could climb down the attic stairs, go back to bed and finally get some sleep. As elated as I was at finding the stockings, I thought it best to wait until morning (when I was again sane) to call the person who assured me the stockings were not in attic.

There seems to be a looking for something theme going on in my life as of late. For awhile now I have been wanting to make some fudge for the holidays so I have been on the hunt for a 'new' recipe. The fudge recipe I had made in the past is really good, just not great. Upon coming across a recipe for Chocolate Irish Cream Candies, I had a really strong feeling I might have found the 'great' I was looking for (without going insane in the process). What is not to love about a candy described as a cross between a caramel and fudge made with Irish cream liqueur and chocolate?

The recipe calls for nine ounces of bittersweet chocolate (at least 70% cocoa). I had recently bought some Scharffen Berger chocolate and decided it would be the perfect chocolate for this 'fudge'. Sold in 9.7 ounce blocks, I couldn't see saving .7 ounces for another use so I chopped all of it up. Sometimes more is better.

This was the fudge that almost wasn't as the pan I choose wasn't really large enough. As the mixture expands significantly while cooking, it momentarily looked like I was going to have a literal hot mess rather than pan of creamy, rich chocolately fudge. Stirring it constantly was the only thing keeping the mixture from overflowing. So the next time I make this fudge (and there will be next time) I will not be using my 'not large enough' copper pot but one of my larger cast iron pots.

The cooked caramel like mixture rests for five minutes before the finely chopped chocolate is stirred in. Once the chocolate is fully incorporated, the mixture is poured into a parchment paper lined nine inch pan and immediately sprinkled with sea salt.

When completely cooled the fudge is cut into one inch squares and wrapped in squares of parchment paper.

This fudge has a perfect creamy texture. The Irish cream liqueur compliments but does not overpower the flavor of the bittersweet chocolate.

The sprinkle of fine sea salt over the top of the fudge is the quintessential finishing touch. And while this may technically not be a fudge, it has both its' look and texture.

As I was wrapping these intoxicating bites of goodness, I couldn't wait to see and hear the reactions of everyone who tasted them. Validation can be a really good thing.

If you too have been searching for a 'great' fudge recipe, one with undertones of a caramel flavor, look no further because today is your lucky day. And it will be a lucky Christmas if the someone who shall remain nameless finds these in their Christmas stocking. That is, if they can find their stocking when they get home.

Recipe

Chocolate Caramel Fudge (inspired by Yossy Arefi's Chocolate Irish Cream Candies recipe)

Ingredients

1 cup heavy whipping cream

1/2 cup Irish Cream liqueur (recommend Bailey's)

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

1 1/2 cups golden syrup (recommend Lyle's) or can use light corn syrup

1 teaspoon kosher salt

9 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped (recommend Scharffen Berger and used the entire 9.7 ounces bar)

Flaky sea salt for finishing

Directions

1. Line a 9"x 9" pan with parchment paper and set aside.

2. In a large, heavy bottomed pan, combine the whipping cream, Irish cream liqueur, granulated sugar, golden syrup, and salt. Bring to a boil, cooking until mixture reaches 250 degrees (F) on a candy thermometer.

3. Remove from heat and allow to sit for 5 minutes.

4. Stir in chopped chocolate and pour into prepared pan. Immediately sprinkle with sea salt.

5. Allow to cool completely. Cut into 1 inch squares and wrap in squares of parchment paper or cellphone (recommend using a thinner brown parchment paper for wrapping).

6. Store in an airtight container.